Cruit Island - Far West Buttress |
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Far West Buttress, Cruit. - A/.Buoyish Antics? B/.The Fan Man. C/. Cruit Crack. D/.Uaigneas. E/. St. Daniel en Cruit. F/.Average Contents. G/.Less Than Average Contents.H/.Clann Crack. J/.Trident |
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Directions: From The Albatross Zawn follow the coastal path South West for Approx. 200m. The Far West Buttress is the steep slab of excellent North West facing rock with a convienient cave on the high water mark in the centre of the slab. OS Grid Reference: B729207 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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S 4aLength: 20m I. Miller , C. Gleeson 18/08/08 Climb "Splits" to half height, stretch across to main wall on your right to gain a deep right trending crack. Follow the crack steeply to summit.
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VS 5aLength: 20m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 18/08/09 Climb "Splits" for a few meters and make an airy wee move rightwards to gain the jugs immediately above the roof below. Traverse right just above the roof on superb rock and jugs. Follow the natural fault line to summit. Excellent exposure!
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VS 5aLength: 20m I Miller, K Mcgee 12/09/05 At the back of the overhung recess, 8 mtr left of the "flop." Climb boldly upto the jammed white bouy to a good ledge. Continue steeply up right following the flakes and jugs to and excellent crux at half hieght to a further smaller ledge. Climb direct to summit on slightly poor rock.
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Length: 23m R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85) Flop, then escape left out of the groove into the crack at 3m (crux). Follow the cracks near the arete to the top.
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Length: 26m D Walsh, R Higgins (5/8/85) Flop, then traverse high and diagonally right and up until forced to climb straight up (crux) to gain a fault and step right onto the arete. Follow this and the headwall to the top.
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VS 4cLength: 26m D Walsh, R Higgins (3/8/85) Flop, then traverse low and right to gain the foot of a prominent right-facing corner, go up this with increasing difficulty, on the right, to the top.
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Length: 22m P.Cooper, D.Millar & A.Tees 22/05/06 Same approach as for Average Contents. Traverse in to middle of slab and then proceed up to meet shallow crackline. Gear a bit thin and progressively harder to place. Touch of an eliminate line (no surprises there then!) try to keep your soul pure and avoid escaping left to Uiagneas or right.
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Length: 15m R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85) Approach the crag from the right, go down a ramp and traverse left to reach a cave low in the centre and belay. Escape dramatically up left over the overhang and then follow the crack directly above.
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VD Length: 15m R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85) Escape right of the overhang and follow the overhang to the top slab.
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Length: 15m G Parle, P Conroy (3/8/85) The continuous off-width crack just right of the cave
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HS 4aLength: 15m I Miller, C Gleason Climb the right hand edge of the crag with excellent flowing moves to join "Two Move Blunder" in the upper reaches
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Length: 15m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 04/05/12 Climb as for "One Move Wonder" at half height pull through the steep, almost roof crack and romp to the top.
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Length: 15m P Conroy, G Parle (3/8/85) The obvious left-curving chimney on the right of the crag.
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Length: 15m G Parle, M. Mills (4/8/85) The arete on the left edge of the buttress.
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Length: 15m I Miller, C Gleason 17/6/12 Next right of "The Elephants Trunk" is a very deep cleft. Climb it with a tricky start and a bit of a squeeze just above
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Length: 10m I Miller, C Gleason 28/4/12 Climb the wall to the right of the Trident grooves
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Length: 10m ? To the right of Crimp for The Big slab there are three parrallell grooves all about diff
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S 4aLength: 32m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 17/04/10 At it's Western end, the "Far west Buttress" terminates into a big daddy of a sea cave/tunnel. On the seaward wall of the cave, climb the inverted ridge with considerable atmosphere. Pitch 1. 6m From sea level climb the left trending hand crack to the right hand end of a superb non tidal ledge. Pitch 2. 25m 4a Traverse out left along the ledge until you are overlooking the void. Circumnavigate the void on jugs and superb rock/gear, keep overlooking the void as you ascend for full effect. A superb pitch. |
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Length: 21m I. Miller 17/04/10 This route cimbs the right trending chimney in the centre of the face. Pitch 1. 6m As for "Cave Rave." Pitch 2. 15m. At the right hand end of the non tidal ledge, back & foot the right trending chimney until forced into grassy shenanigans at it's summit. |
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Length: 20m I. Miller, Nepal Paul 12/05/10 From the same ledge at 5m from sea level, (as for Cave Rave & Gadaboot Chimney) climb the right trending fault to the right of Gadaboot Chimney.
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Length: 20m Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 12/04/12 Approx 30m on the sea ward side of Cave Rave climb the center of the black triangle of rock following the central groove. Holds and gear become increasingly unhelpful as height is gained.
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Length: 10m L OConnor, H Hennessy 24/4/2013 5 meters right of the "bowels", climb left trending ramp and move
out right to follow a groove to the top.
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Crag Number: 153