Name: Midsummer trip
Start: 2024-06-21T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-06-23T23:59:59+00:00

Editor: Barnesmore Gap - Biddy's Buttress
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Crag Profile: Barnesmore Gap - Biddy's Buttress
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Biddy's Buttress, Barnesmore Gap - A. Smutt Ridge B. Six Five Special. C. The Fat Controller D. Iron Horse E. Age of Excellence F. Jeepers Sleepers. G. Head of Steam. H. Locomotion. (Wee Shunt takes the crack on the RHS of the wall extreme upper right).
Directions: East side of Barnesmore Gap. Note Access Amendment Notes. There is no longer a bridge across the river, it was demolished as part of a road realignment. A Car Park is below the crag. Wade river, wellies usually adequate, then go up hillside. Records of climbs here do not mean you can climb here. After 16 trouble free years of climbing at this crag: The owner, Mr Charlie McMenamin, has banned climbing (and walking) on this mountain since 19/08/07. A sensible solution can hopefully be arranged by negotiation, but in the meantime please stay away. OS Grid Reference: H032854 Click here to view location in Google Maps

Left of the main crag are two pillars.

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1 - Hornbi Ridge * S 4a Length: 20m A Tees, M Pailing (9/6/92) This route takes the arete of the furthest left of the two pillars. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Smut Ridge VS 4c Length: 20m A Tees, K Gallagher (17/9/95) Climbs the pillar between 'Hornbi Ridge' and the main face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next route is found at the left hand edge of the main face, in from the arete

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3 - Six-Five Special S 4a Length: 35m A Tees, P Robinson (8/91) Get to the base of the harp-shaped depression. Climb up the left-hand side and over a small overhang. Follow cracks to ledge, pass a holly bush to finish up a succession of steps to a good belay ledge. Exit left and descend by Bilberry Gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
4 - The Fat Controller VS 4c Length: 20m Robinson/Russell Although included in the Donegal Guide, there is some doubt that this route ever received a first ascent. It was submitted to New Climbs with a batch of other Barnesmore routes, with a provisional grade of 4c on the basis that messrs Robinson & Russell, who cleaned it, would return in dry weather, climb it, and confirm the grade. Alan tees & Bill Magowan climbed it 28/03/04 and confirm the grade at 4c, but it needs another clean View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
5 - Iron Horse VS 4b Length: 40m A Tees, P Robinson (27/5/91) R of the harp-shaped depression, twin cracks run up to a shallow depression. Climb these and continue up to an off-width. Follow this (awkwardly) and then try to place a piece of gear before reaching the top via a hook shaped crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
6 - Age of Excellence * * * VS 4c Length: 40m A Tees, M Pailing, P Robinson (6/8/91) Start at the centre of the main slab. Climb up and right to gain the bottom of the cracks running parallel with the slab's right edge. Climb these cracks with increasing difficulty to where the crack meets the edge. Continue up the edge until forced right into an awkward mantelshelf above a holly bush. Go back left onto the arete, from where excellent climbing leads to a crack which curves leftwards across the upper slab. Follow this to the top of Iron Horse. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
7 - Jeepers Sleepers * HS 4b Length: 30m A Tees, M Pailing (6/08/91) At the right-hand end of the main slab is an elevated grass ledge which can be gained from the right. On the right-hand side of a ledge, a crack climbs up until it stops. Climb the crack to the top, and step right onto another ledge. Climb a stepped line of sleepers which are steepish and proneish to seepage ...ish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
8 - Head of Steam * * VS 4c Length: 35m V Russell, P Robinson (9/10/91) This takes the bulging crack on the face, right of Jeepers Sleepers. Continuing up a series of groove-lines to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Right of Head of Steam is an elevated grassy ledge which is gained from the right.

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9 - Locomotion * S 4a Length: 30m A Tees, V Russell (9/10/91) Climb a short wall on good holds and traverse left to the bottom of a right-angled corner, at the top of this swing out right on good handholds to gain a jug; move right to a patch of grass. Follow the leftward crack, this takes seepage, to gain a vertical groove to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Narrow Gauge Cracks HS 4b Length: 28m A Tees, V Russell (9/10/91) Right of Locomotion is a pod-shaped depression at about 4m. This is reached from the right by using the horizontal grooves below. Climb the deep crack above until it joins a horizontal crack. Toe-traverse left until it meets the right-angled corner of Locomotion (crux). Continue up Locomotion to the leftward crack which is followed to the end. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Above and right of the main crag, is a stepped alcove, whose right external features a fine "U" shaped crack.

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11 - Wee Shunt S 4a Length: 10m Alan Tees & Bill Magowan 14/08/04 This takes the short corner & wide crack, just right of the fine U-shaped crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Owengarve Viaduct VS 4b Length: 18m Brian Johnston, A.N.Other At the bottom left of the slab containing "Donegal Junction" climb a thin clean crack, which bends left, and then continues to the top of the slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
- Frases VI No length recorded This is why I like this site. Frases mensajesdereflexion1.wordpress.com/ View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Donegal Junction VS 4b Length: 25m B Johnston, M Pailing Locate a bulging sidewall, right of Owengarve Junction. Pull up over the bulge to gain slab and follow the grooves above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next route can be found by continuing rightwards and upwards, past Jeepers Sleepers, for 100M. The route takes the righthand crack on a small detached wall at the top right hand side of the main buttress. The wall is 10m high

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14 - Biddy's Beard E1 5b Length: 10m D.Millar & M.Gardiner June 14th 2004 Climb the lower wall to directly below the righthand crack, step right and climb the juggy crack to ledge. Step back into the righthand crack, assemble your gear and continue up the fine crack using bomber finger locks. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route