Route Number: 27

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Donegal Junction

Location: Barnesmore Gap - Biddy's Buttress
Grade: VS 4b
Length: 25m

First ascent: B Johnston, M Pailing

Route Description:

Locate a bulging sidewall, right of Owengarve Junction. Pull up over the bulge to gain slab and follow the grooves above.

Pete Smith at Barnesmore Gap - Pete Smith seconds Donegal Junction (VS 4b) on the route's first ascent. Brian Johnston led and Pete had no rock shoes handy, so went up in socks.

Comments

Peter Cooper - 23/09/2002
Near the foot of this buttress a 5a/b start is possible. Use stepped part of buttress' edge to gain a high bulge/hold on arete for right hand and the horizontal crack on face for foot and left hand. Use these to pull you onto face, followed by nice 'slabby' moves up to join normal route. Alan Tees has advised me this has been done before.

Pete Smith - 17/09/2002
Makes a nice follow-up route after Head of Steam or Jeepers Sleepers as it begins just above where they end.