Age of Excellence * * * |
Location: Barnesmore Gap - Biddy's Buttress
Grade: VS 4c
Length: 40m
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| First ascent: A Tees, M Pailing, P Robinson (6/8/91) |
| Route Description: |
| Start at the centre of the main slab. Climb up and right to gain the bottom of the cracks running parallel with the slab's right edge. Climb these cracks with increasing difficulty to where the crack meets the edge. Continue up the edge until forced right into an awkward mantelshelf above a holly bush. Go back left onto the arete, from where excellent climbing leads to a crack which curves leftwards across the upper slab. Follow this to the top of Iron Horse. |
Age of Excellence, Barnesmore Gap Donegal - This varied, long, demanding route tests the VS leader to the limit. Brilliant climbing.
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| Comments |
Kevin Kilroy - 06/07/2009
Climbed this last Friday with Emma Clarke...absolutely amzing route, contrasting styles on impecable rock.
We were let down by the wind though and the midges were really happy to see us.
Would like to ask how people have been getting back off the crag from this route. We found a rusty cam on the "exit left" and contemplated abbing off. Instead we tried for the grassy gully above (it didn't go) and finally succumed to abbing. I left behind one dynema sling and #6 rock to back up the rusty old cam. With a bit of delicate surgery the ab could probably be rigged safely with a bit of tat around the boulder lower down. Alas, light was fading and the gear has to stay there.
As for the grade, it was really exciting going up expecting VS. I'd say the top traverse is as hard as the "crux" below. Exposure takes on a new meaning on that traverse! |
Pete - 06/07/2009
If you keep going left from the rusty cam then you reach a steep damp gully after a few yards. The move off the rock - to the grassy ledge near where the cam is placed - is quite exposed. As for VS, I reckon it'll be HVS before long. |
Domhnall Brannigan - 20/04/2008
Having done the route back in 2002-ish with glynn Foster - I agree, it is HVS 5a! Brilliant though. Is is true the crag is now off-limits? |
Rodders - 09/09/2007
I'm not the unnamed snidey wanker by the way just in case anyone thought that! |
Unnamed snidey wanker - 17/08/2007
so did you lead it origionally??? |
Alan Tees - 27/06/2006
This is probably undergraded, and should be HVS 5a (as I originally thought) |
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