Route Number: 28

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Iron Horse

Location: Barnesmore Gap - Biddy's Buttress
Grade: VS  4b
Length: 40m
First ascent: A Tees, P Robinson (27/5/91)
Route Description:
R of the harp-shaped depression, twin cracks run up to a shallow depression. Climb these and continue up to an off-width. Follow this (awkwardly) and then try to place a piece of gear before reaching the top via a hook shaped crack.

Photo of Route
Iron Horse, Barnesmore - Sandra, all smiles- she hasnt seen the off- width yet!
Comments

Kevin Kilroy - 06/07/2009
Myself and Emma Clarke climbed on Biddy's Buttress for the first time on Friday past, access involved parking at the layby carpark in the valley, walking along the river until the water was shallow enough not to pass over the tops of our boots and then beating our way through fern and heather until the crag. Delightful on a clammy summers day.

Alan Tees - 04/06/2009
Should Have at least two and probably three stars, In My humble opinion

rodders - 04/06/2009
yup 3 stars probably fair if i remember rightly. Super line. Maybe 9 or 10 years since i climbed at the gap. Whats the access situation these days?

Dave Millar - 15/06/2004
I agree with Pete, myself and Marlene did this yesterday and that top curving crack after the off-width is quite airy(and runout if you have no big cams!). Great route though.

Pete Smith - 17/09/2002
This route is at the top of its grade (or else I'm always off-form when I climb it). If you do Donegal Junction and then expect a similar trip on this (just because the grades are the same), think again.

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