Editor: Croc an affrain | |
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Crag Profile: Croc an affrain |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: This crag sits in a pleasant location above Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay with one of the finest skylines to be had. It now has the distinction of being a road-side mountain crag. Approach from the East and a road now takes you up to the summit, courtesy of a Wind Farm. NOTE map ref in current guidebook is out or has typing error. From Letterkenny go to Ramelton, go over the bridge and take the road on the left for Milford.Go past the Milford Inn Hotel(5km) and after 500 meters more take the road on the right for Fanad Head --- Kerrykeel. Go straight through the crossroads in the center of Kerrykeel and take the road for Rathmullen. After 700 meters there is a Y junction, take the road on the right for Oughterlin. Stay on this road for 3.6km and come to a rough road on the right going up to a windfarm. Take this road to the highest windmill and plenty of parking.(GR C242 298) There are gates on the windfarm road but they are never locked just remember to close after use. From the highest windmill it is a 10 minute walk west to the crag.(GR C239 298). OS Grid Reference: C241298 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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| Climbs are listed left-to-right. Go to far west, Kerrykeel, end of crag past large slab and big overhangs. |
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1 - Spartacus
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VS 4bLength: 20m K McGee, P Tinney. 15/04/10 Start about half way between Crispy Bacon and the tree. Climb the centre of the steep wall to gain a stance below the overhang. Climb this and follow the thin crack to a ledge above the tree. Climb up over the bulge and continue up the final wall on the left side. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Crispy Bacon
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VS 4bLength: 20m K McGee, P Tinney, G Scott. 10/04/10 Located on the Kerrykeel side of the crag past Springbok and the big overhangs is a small face with a tree on the left edge, a central groove and an overhang on the right edge. Climb the central groove to just below the jammed block and grass. Move left and climb up the centre of the short steep wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Aisha
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HVS 5aLength: 18m K McGee, P Tinney. 24/04/10 To the right of Crispy Bacon follow a faint crack up the cente of the face to a ledge. Climb past the horizontal break and up the groove with increasing difficulty to gain a good stance above the overhang.Follow the crack easily to the grass and climb the edge of the right block. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Limbo
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E1 4cLength: 18m K McGee, G Scott. 01/05/10 Start directly below the right edge of the overhang. Climb up the face between the two cracks to a stance under the overhang. Move right into the chimney and climb this until you can make the airy step to the lowest foothold on the arete. Place some protection, make the step and climb the edge of the arete to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| These climbs are on the big slab located at the far left of the crag and left of the descent gully |
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45 - Cobwebs
VS 4cLength: 17m P. Tinney, K. McGee 23/02/2019 About 6 metres right of Crispy Bacon there is prominent section of
rock with a large overhang at about 4 metres up. To the left of the
wall there is a crack in the corner left of the large detached block.
Climb this crack (crux) for 5 metres and make a few moves right to big
holds and a small ledge. In the centre of the face there is an obvious
line to a blocky outcrop. Climb up over this to easy ground above.
There are stakes in the heather back from the cliff edge.
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47 - Best Forgotten
HS 4aLength: 20m P. Tinney & A. Tinney 28/10/2018 Start as for Becca to the ledge at 3 metres. Go up left following
broken cracks up left of centre of the face. Finish up short corner
crack to the top. Belay from stakes in heather. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
44 - Becca
Length: 22m Patrick & Adam Tinney Start 1 metre left of Mid Life Crisis under a large grass corner. Go up to large blocky ledge at 3 metres. Step unto face using side pulls on crack on the right. Get up onto good triangular foot ledge (Crux). Continue up face keeping right to good sling rock spike. Finish up slightly overhanging wall on the left using a series of superb jugs to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Mid Life Crisis
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E1 5bLength: 22m K McGee, P Tinney 29/08/10 To the left of Anaphylactic Shock is a large face. Start in the middle and climb the obvious ramp or directly up the face to a protruding block. A couple of reasonable microwires can be placed on the way. Make an awkward move and stand on top of the block. Move right to gain the cracks and place some good gear. Climb up these and continue to the base of the next wall. A sling can be threaded out on the left. Climb up the centre of the wall(good size 1 nut) until the holds run out, delicately move left to a thin crack with good nut placements and holds at the top. Climb up the centre of the overhang to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Anaphylactic Shock
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HVS 5aLength: 22m K McGee, P Tinney 01/08/10 To the left of the ivy covered face is a large overhang. Start on a small rock outcrop below the left side of the overhang. Make an awkward move to gain a stance on the face and climb to the base of the roof(good pro). Move left in to the groove and climb this direct to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Neytiri
VS 4bLength: 22m P. Tinney , K McGee 2- 10- 2010 The large open book corner with the roof 10 meters left of Spring buck. Climb up crack in corner on good holds and protection until crack gets very small about 1.5m below roof. Step out onto left face and traverse to large ledge on arete. Climb up arete and move right when level with roof. Finish up steep wall above roof on good holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Fill the Census
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E1 5bLength: 20m P. Tinney & K.McGee 10/4/2011 Start as for Neytiri and climb up to the roof. Place some small cams in the crack in the roof to the right. Reach up for holds in the crack, get the feet up and layback across roof to a block with good holds and a small ledge below. Make a long step to good ledge on the arete. Then move up into corner and step left onto slab above the overhang. Climb across slab and exit on left on large holds to large belay ledge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Springbok
VS 4cLength: 25m Andy Tees, Ian Nutall 1/08/04 Towards the LHS of the big slab of Heather Rogan is a deep leftward trending crack. Gain this at about 4m and traverse left and up to the edge of the slab. Delicate moves left into diedre, which is climbed on better protection and holds to just below overhang. Step right, back onto upper slab, where good footholds trend right and up to finish near the slab centre View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| The next routes are to the right of the Main Slab and left of Descent Gully |
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10 - Smoke on the water
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E2 6aLength: 20m K McGee, P Tinney 16/10/10 Start up the thin vertical crack on the left of the slab and climb directly to the overlap. Use a cluster of crystals high on the right to gain a small hold above the overlap. Move across to the left edge and place a good .3cam(awkward)and then make a few more difficult moves to gain good holds and a spike for a sling. Move out right on to the face and continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Disco Legs
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E4 6aLength: 20m K McGee, P Tinney 25/09/10 In the centre of the face is an obvious flake. Start directly below the left side of this. Climb up to the second break on poor footholds and move out right to gain a series of steps . Follow these to the next break below the flake and arrange an assortment of poor gear(small nuts and cams). Gain a stance on the left side of the flake and place some more suspect wires. Climb straight up to 3 small pockets and a tiny crack. The left pocket takes a brass offset3 and the crack takes a size 0. Aim for a good hold about 4 foot above the gear and continue easily to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Heather Rogan
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E1 5bLength: 20m K. McGee, P. Tinney 29/06/2009 Towards the left hand side of the crag and almost at the highest point is an impressive clean slab. This takes the obvious line of weakness up its right hand side. Fairly desperate towards the top being a bit thin on gear at the crux. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - Mulroy
S 4aLength: 12m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 17/08/07 Approx 10 metres right of the main slab containing Springbok, is a short corner overhung at the bottom left. Climb this, and move out left to a higher, hanging, right angled corner, which is climbed more easily. Move right and up short wall to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Peregrination
HVS 5aLength: 14m P.Cooper, G.Thomas 13/07/05 Starts at base of wall at the bottom of the descent gully (on l. when facing the crag). Follow the thin crack in centre of steep slab to its' termination, step back across left to gain horizontal crack and continue directly up through the recess above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - Shattered
Length: 7m 13/07/08 P.Cooper & V.Schafer Located opposite the boulder at the foot of the descent gully, 5M r. of 'Peregrination' and on the l. of 'Thin Yin'. A groove leads up to a thin v-split crack, tackled on its left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Thin Yin
VD Length: 8m R J Lee, A Tees A poor route on the right-hand side of the descent gully with a `squeeze' exit (going down). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| The next routes are back on the main crag to the right of the Descent Gully |
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17 - Jammed Arete
HS 4bLength: 15m A McFarlane (4/89) N W 6/3 Jammed Arete 15m HS.4b An arete with a jam crack at two-thirds height, situated at the true right wall of the descent gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
18 - Geoff's Barely Contained Indifference
HS 4bLength: 7m P.Cooper, G.Thomas 13/07/05 Climbs short steep/slabby face on r. of 'Jammed arete', keeping left of capped corner at mid-height. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
19 - Nut Scratcher
Length: 5m P.Cooper & G.Speciale Centre of first face right of descent Gully. Straight up wall using cracks and edges (never!). Finish over small overlap on left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
20 - Easy Street
Length: 15m A McFarlane (4/89) The first slab right of the descent gully. Just right of centre, finishing right of overlap. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
21 - Vixen
Length: 9m P.Cooper, G.Thomas 13/07/05 2M r. of 'Nutscratcher' climb centre of slabby face, finishing direct. Has a nice exposed feel but the gear is there. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
22 - Boulder One
Length: 15m A McFarlane (4/89) The second slab right of the descent gully. A bouldering move to start. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
23 - Daddy Fox
Length: 5m A Tees, Andrew Tees. NW6/4 A short corner 15m right of the descent gully(facing it from the bottom). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
24 - Gilpin's Groove
Length: 5m M.W.Holland, J.Gilpin, J.Sinclair, J.Purcell 22/09/07 Approximately 4m left of "Daddy Fox" (assuming Daddy Fox to be the obvious vegetated corner or right around the arete from "Boulder One"). A flake crack was followed up the left hand side of the wall to finish through an obvious 'V' notch/groove in the crag top. Pleasant climbing using the crack and edges. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
25 - Welfare Scam
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HVS 5aLength: 15m A McFarlane, P Dunlop, N Grimes (4/89) The first corner left of the main area of overhangs (the first corner right of the two slabs right of the descent gully). Sustained and strenuous. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
26 - Tuning Fork
Length: 17m P.Tinney,K.McGee, M.McGinty 28/08/2008 Start about 3 metres right of welfare scam.Follow small crack leftwards to good stance.Move right up large flake crack and over onto main face above. Easier climbing to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
27 - Ballbuster
Length: 15m P Tinney, K McGee, M Mc Ginty Starts on the corner of the face 4m left of Gateway. Jump for holds on the outcrop and climb it on the left side(can be protected with a sling on the first hold). Climb straight up, left of the second overhang. Continue up over pockets and climb the wall directly for about 7m. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
28 - Stranded
Length: 16m K. Mc Gee, P Tinney. 08/08 Start just to the right of Ballbuster. Jump for large hold(v.sharp) and place a sling on the next hold to the right. Get right hand up to the loose (jammed) block. Gain stance in niche under the second overhang with one or two precarious moves. Move right past the overhang and climb the v groove for about 4m to meet a crack coming from the right. Climb this easily to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| The next routes start up the large clean cut, right-facing, book corner |
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29 - Gateway
Length: 18m K. Mc Gee, P Tinney Start as for Tin A Beans 10m left of the great corner. Climb the left edge of the second overhang and then move back to the right for 2m. Climb the leftward trending crack for 11m to top. Thin on gear but a good nut can be placed about 4m above the second overhang and a size 1 nut about 8m up the face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
30 - Zorro
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E1 5cLength: 20m K. Mc Gee, P Tinney. 22/08/08 Start as for Tin a Beans 10m left of the great corner. Climb straight up the second overhang and climb directly up the face staying between the two cracks. Bold in the upper face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
31 - TIN-A-BEANS
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HVS 5cLength: 20m P Tinney, K McGee 22 August 2008 10 metres left of Great Corner in the centre of the main overhangs there is a pillar of rock with a crack above. Get feet high on pillar and grab high for good hold in crack and another on the left. Move up over rim (crux) and follow crack up over next overhang to main face. Follow crack for 4m to small rock spike then traverse right to larger crack and follow this to top. NOTE:only protection for crux was a sling on a rock-spike. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
46 - Broken Biscuits
Length: 20m H. Hennessy, R. Redmond, S. Carrol 25/05/13 Four meters right of “TIN-A-BEANS” there is a large crack through
the overhang, climb this out leftwards to a good stance, traverse
right out to the arete and follow this to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
32 - Cantabrian Cracks
HS 4bLength: 20m A Tees, P Marshall (19/5/90) Climb Great Corner to two-thirds height, then take the deep cracks in the left-hand wall. Continue up the arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
33 - Great Corner
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VS 4bLength: 20m A Tees, P Marshall (19/5/90) Climb the obvious cleaned right-angled corner left of Bludgeon. Bypass the final overhang delicately on the right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
34 - Veronica
Length: 20m A.Tees, P.Marshall 1990 Climb Great Corner to just above the overhang. Traverse delicately right (crux) to join Bludgeon, and continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
35 - Dole Bludger
Length: 20m A McFarlane, D Stelfox (20.11/88) Start up the first blocky recess through the right of the slab. Climb up into the diagonal crack that runs up to a short headwall. Climb the headwall via the left-hand break. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
36 - Chicken Run
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E1 5aLength: 20m K Mc Gee, P Tinney. (04/09) Climb the overhang about 2m right of Dole Bludger. Can be protected with a BD1cam. Continue up to a small spike(sling). Climb directly up the face between the two cracks- no gear. Cross the crack(Bludgeon) about 2 metres below the headwall and place some gear. A BD 00 cam can be placed at the base of the headwall. Move right to below a thin vertical crack line and climb the face here on small holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
37 - Bludgeon
HVS 5aLength: 20m D Stelfex, A McFarlane (20/11/88) Start at the next recess to the right. A steep juggy start through the first overhang leads to another overhang at 5m. Nip left through this to the easy upper wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| The next routes are on the Upper Crag, above and North of the Main Crag. 'Bless the Weather' takes the left arete of the obvious right facing corner. |
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38 - Crack an affrain
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HS 4bLength: 18m P. Tinney & K. McGee. 29/8/2010 About 25meters to the right of The Great Corner just before the large boulder there is an easy angled wall leading up to an overhanging crack. Climb the wall easily on large holds to a good stance. From here place as many friends as you like then layback up the crack to large holds above and then easily up to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
39 - Falarious
Length: 12m B. Reed & H. Feenstra The corner arete to the left of the large fallen boulder. Start up the short corner to a sloping ledge. Move up to gain the slabby arete and follow to top. Poorly protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
40 - The SnailleTrail
Length: 10m N Grimes, A McFarlane, P Dunlop (1989) Start behind the boulder formed cave beside Bankruptcy It climbs the clean, unprotected slab starting at the bottom and finishing at the top, via a long reach into a black groove.
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41 - Bankruptcy
D Length: 20m NWMC 1950s 40m right of the'Great Corner' locate a right facing 'boulder formed' cave. Surmount cave and arete above. (Original route on the crag). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
41a - Smigil
Length: 12m Patrick and Aisling Tinney, 14 - 4 - 2012 About 6 metres to the right of Bankruptcy there is a large outcrop of rock with a left facing wall. Start about half way along this wall beside a small knife edge arete running up left. Step up onto the arete and make a move right to a good ledge. From the left side of the ledge move up and left to a fine flake crack on good holds and then on up to another good ledge. Reach out right for good holds on the steep face and finish to the top on big holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
41b - Gollum
VS 4cLength: 18m Patrick & Adam Tinney. 6-4-3013 Start at the far right corner of the face about 5 metres right of Smigil. Go up easy broken ground to a ledge 5 metres. Then layback up slopping corner in center of face to big holds on the left. Pull up into the corner and follow this up to the arete and large ledge. Climb easily up the face trying to keep to the left arete to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
43 - Custard
Length: 12m Patrick & Adam Tinney About 80metres to the right of the boulder cave is a small buttress
with 2 large square shaped overhangs. Start on the right of the first
overhang. Move across the slab above on big holds to a small ledge on
the right and then back left into the groove. Easy climbing to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
42 - Bless the weather
Length: 5m P.Cooper, P.Smith The upper crag has an east facing clean-cut face, this takes the line of the arete; crux move above gear. I felt it was severe but Pete (my 2nd, Alan Tees (2nd ascentionist)and Mrs Ryan (who just needs to get out more :) ) all thought it was HS. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
