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GR 613924. This route climbs the outrageous, soaring landward arete of this beast. Access is a monster walk in from GR613889 over Slievetooey (472m). Access to base of the stack is a 100m steep grass/mixed ground scramble to truly atmospheric location on the boulder beach at the base of the stack. Descent from summit is by guile and 2 abseils down the route. This route has to be seen to be believed!
Pitch 1, 50m, 4a. To the West of the landward arete climb the huge corner crack until it terminates. Traverse right & ascend the ramp to gain arete & PB. (2 good gear placements in 50m, fall & U will die)
Pitch 2, 50m, Continue up the Arete by a very atmospheric scramble to the big block @ the top of the boulder field.
Pitch 3, 45m, Crimp left and ascend up superb rock, continue to the summit by your easiest route.
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