Editor: Sea Stacks and Pinnacles | |
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Crag Profile: Sea Stacks and Pinnacles |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: OS Grid Reference: various |
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1 - Dare To Be!
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XS Length: 90m Iain Miller, Martin Boner 30/06/09 Grid Reference 516869. This Monster seastack sits equidistant between Skelpoonagh bay (to the South) and the Sturral Headland. (to the North) It is guarded by monster 200mtr cliffs from both directions, a huge committing sea passage is required to land on the beast. Abseil descent of the route. This stack can be easily seen from the Glencolmcille to Malinbeg road. Pitch 1, 20m, From the huge sea level platform at the Southern end of the stack, scramble up to a large ledge below the steep open book corner. Pitch 2, 30m, Climb the open book corner and continue up the arete to a superb recess, below the bulge and capping roof. Pitch 3, 10m, Climb direct to a boulder field at the southern end of the summit ridge. Pitch 4, 30m, Carefully scramble along the ridge to the airy and exposed summit block. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Dan Osman RIP
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XS 4aLength: 55m Iain Miller 07/06/08 Port Bay, near Glencolmcille. This route climbs the big daddy stack 1 KM to the south of An Port @ GR537887 by it's seaward face. Pitch 1, 30m, 4a, Climb the right hand side of the conglomerate wall and traverse left along the superb band of black slab until able to ascend to the open book corner. Climb the corner to a big ledge, block belay. Pitch 2, 25m, Climb to the summit in fine stack style. (no gear and awesome atmosphere) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Osmorererulation
D Length: 23m Iain Miller 07/06/08 Port Bay, near Glencolmcille.This route climbs the smaller of the 2 stacks in an awesome and commiting location. 1 KM south of An Port @ GR538887.Climb the black slab of immaculate rock to a stance, just right of centre on the seaward face and Jug haul to the airy summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Vertical Picnic
VD Length: 30m Iain Miller, Desmond Oconnor. 03/08/2008 At Port Bay Glencolmcille. This route climbs the 35 mtr sea stack immediately to the south of Berg Stack, at GR544887 and approx 600 mtr to the south of the An Port road end. Access is by stack hopping across Berg Stack and a swim. In the centre of the seaward face, climb from the very tidal platform to a superb wee cave and spacious ledge @ 4 mtr. On superb wave washed black rock, climb the groove directly above to a smaller stance and continue to the summit on the steep left hand crack/corner line. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Black Mamba
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VS 4cLength: 22m Iain Miller, Wolfgang Schuessler 23/03/11 As you drive down the Port road you can't help but notice a perfect Black Stack sitting about 500m out to sea, this stack is known locally as "An Staca." Climb the seaward face direct to a steep corner and pull through the corner with the whole world below your heels. The sea journey to this stack is very emotional. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Realm of the Senses
S Length: 50m Iain Miller 13/09/08 The stack nearest An Port road end is climbed by both it's landward and seaward faces.The landward face route starts below the landward arete. (facing the road end) Climb the immaculate rock to a grassy ramp. Follow the ramp with increased exposure and grovel to the summit. The seaward face was climbed @ Moderate for 80 Mtr up a superb ramp and deep grot grovel to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Rolling Thunder
Length: 80m Iain Miller 13/09/08 This stack is another classic wedge shape and is located on the seaward side of "The Realm of the Senses" stack @ GR546893.This stack was climbed on it's seaward(ish) face. Just to the North of the huge seaward ramp lies a massive basin of rock walls, Scramble up the center of the lower ramp to a rock scar niche. Climb steepy through the niche and grovel to an exposed and awesome summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Lobster Corner
XS 4cLength: 35m Iain Miller 02/09/09 Grid Reference G545893 This route climbs the left facing corner crack left of centre on the landward face of "Rolling Thunder" stack. Boulder hop at lowest tide. Pitch 1. 20m. 4c. From a small non-tidal ledge, climb the steep left facing corner to a wee recess below the ominous chimney crack. Pitch 2. 15m. 4a. Climb the chimney crack and right facing corner to the stack summit View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Lobster Wall
Length: 35m Iain Miller 02/09/09 Grid Reference G545893. This route climbs the jug infested face and corners right of centre on the landward face of "Rolling Thunder" stack. Lowest tide boulder hop. Pitch 1. 20m. 4a. Climb the juggy corners to a lofty perch at the top of a monster ramp on the North face. Pitch 2. 15m. 3c. Climb the flake crack up the arete to join "Lobster Corner" to the stack summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Twin Arch Stack
VD Length: 40m Iain Miller 13/09/08 This unusal seastack @ GR546894 has two legs at 90 degrees to each other, each housing a super sea arch! Scramble up the centre of the SW face until forced to make very exposed moves up primary jungle to a tottering pin-point summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Swimming Home
Length: 45m Iain Miller 02/09/09 Grid Reference G546894. This route climbs the south face of "Twin Arch Stack." Access by lowest tide boulder hop. Pitch 1, 15m. Gain the narrow ledge at the southern end of the landward face, traverse seaward and gain a higher large platform. Pull through a wee roof onto a huge platform. Pitch 2, 20m. Walk along platform like a ballerina to the base of a wide corner. Pitch 3, 10m. Climb wide corner to an airy summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Rest and Be Thankfull
Length: 35m Iain Miller 02/09/09 Grid Reference G546894 This route climbs the North Face of "Twin Arch" stack. Access by guile at the very lowest of tides. Pitch 1. 15m. 4a. From the seaward side of the arch running through the stack climb the right trending hand crack to the summit ridge. Pitch 2. 20m. Follow summit ridge/ramp to the airy wee summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - Chubby (North Ridge)
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D Length: 35m Iain Miller 28/06/09 Grid Reference 545893. 500 metres directly out to sea (West) of the An Port road end, this stack sits immediately to the North of the VERY obvious "Basalt Phallus Stack." Climb it's North ridge on superb Basalt jugs all the way to the summit. The sea passage to the base of this stack is a superb paddle through and under (if you wish) the collection of stacks between Chubby and the road end! Abseil descent of route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Fortitude in Distress
VD Length: 40m Iain Miller 13/09/08 This classic wedge stack is found on the seaward side of the Twin Arch Stack @ GR545894. Climb up the centre of the landward face until you can pull up onto the seaward ramp.Continue up ramp to the summit. The summit stone was hit by lihtening and is in a burnt out condition. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - Baltic Spire
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VD Length: 40m Iain Miller 01/09/10 Grid Reference G543897. Running along the South face of the mighty Toralaydan Island, Approx. 1KM North of the An Port road end, sits a chain of 3 sea stacks. At the sea ward end of the trio (furthest from the mainland) sits a twin headed Basalt Spire. This route climbs the main and pointed summit. Climb the Eastern arete direct to the summit. This stack sits in an extremely dangerous position and a tad of nautical wisdom is essential. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Icon
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VD Length: 35m Iain Miller 01/09/10 Grid Reference G543897. Running along the South Face of the mighty Toralaydan Island, Approx. 1KM to the North of the An Port road end, sits a chain of three sea stacks. At the sea ward end of the trio (furthest from the main land) sits a twin headed Basalt Spire. This route climbs the smaller dome summit. Climb the immaculate basalt slab up the seaward face, from sea to summit on the most perfect rock Neptune ever sculpted. Extreme nautical caution is required for the approach to/from this beast! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
17 - The Edge of Reason
D Length: 60m Iain Miller 01/09/10 Grid Reference G545896. Running along the South face of the mighty Toralaydan Island, Approx. 1KM North of the An Port road end, sits a chain of three sea stacks. At the Land ward end of the chain sits a huge triangular stack. Climb the sea ward ridge with an increase of exposure and malaise to the superb pointed summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
18 - Toralaydan Island
D -Length: 130m Unknown Grid Ref G544898. Climb the landward face by a huge grass and scree scramble to the monster summit plateau. Access is by a long and emotional paddle from the Port road end. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
19 - Baby Dan Stack
VS 4cLength: 110m Iain Miller 21/07/11 Grid Ref G546898. This route climbs the sea ward face of this remote and difficult to access stack. Pitch 1. 40m 4C. Gain the sea ward face at the point closest to Toralaydan Island and sea level traverse across the slabs to a vertical wall. Traverse across the vertical wall to gain an immaculate ridge. Pitch 2. 30m. Climb the ridge to the grassy summit ridge. Pitch 3. 40m. Scramble to the exposed and airy summit. Access is by a long and emotional paddle from the An Port road end. The sense of commitment and insanity on this stack is surreal. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
20 - An Bhuideal (main stack)
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S 4aLength: 50m Iain Miller, Martin Boner 12/04/09 Grid Reference 549903. Access is an excellent 200mtr scramble down the ridge immediately to the North of the stack. Nautical access is a tad problematic due to converging tidal surging at the North end of the stack. Extreme caution required.The following route climbs the huge arete at the Southern end of the landward face. Easily seen from the surrounding clifftops. Pitch 1, 4a 25m, Start on the excellent ledge below the centre on the landward face of the main stack. Climb up and trend left to an exposed wee ledge on the arete. Pitch 2, 4a, 25m, Climb the arete to the summit, every hold is a jug and the final 5mtrs will make you smile. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
22 - Seal Song Arete
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S Length: 45m Iain Miller, Ursula Macpherson, Wolfgang Schuessler 09/08/11 On the landward face of the main stack of An Bhuideal climb the huge black groove which separates the two towers to an outstanding ledge overlooking the abyss. (possible belay @ 25M) Continue up the arete to the main stack's summit. An excellent route on excellent rock. :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
22 - An Bhuideal (North Tower)
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VS 4cLength: 50m Iain Miller, Steven "Jock" Read, Martin Boner 13/06/09 Grid Reference 549903. This route climbs skinny, exposed and spectacular North Tower of this excellent stack. Access as for the main stack and abseil descent of the route. Pitch 1: 15m From the groove between the two stacks gain and climb the landward arete to a ledge. Pitch 2: 25m 4a Make a rising traverse of the landward face to an exposed platform on the North Face. Pitch 3: 10m 4c Climb to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
23 - Cnoc Na Mara
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VS 4bLength: 152m Iain Miller, Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan 26/07/08 Glencolmcille. This route climbs the Landward arete of the 100 mtr seastack at GR555906, approx 2 KM north of the AN Port road end. Access is by 200 mter steep grass scramble and a 100 mtr channel crossing. Pitch 1. 35m. Climb the wide groove right of centre on the landward face to a grassy ledge and block belay. Pitch 2, 22m. Scramble up the slab to the base of the huge knife edge arete. Pitch 3, 35m. Climb the arete to a peg and block belay on the ledge at it's top. Pitch 4, 60m. An airy pinnacle traverse along the knife edge ridge to the summit View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
24 - A Puffin Too Far
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VS 4cLength: 150m Simon Tait, Iain Miller 18/04/09 This route climbs the seaward face of the Cnoc Na Mara at GR555906, approx 2 KM north of the AN Port road end. Access is by 200 mter steep grass scramble and a 400 mtr channel crossing from the North end of the beach to the base of the seaward face. Abseil down route block and peg belays. 1 25m From the tide ledge right of the deep recess climb the black corner to the huge seaward platform and a choice of belay recesses. 2 45m 4c Immediately left (north) of the huge seaward recess and big roofs, climb the right trending groove to below an ominious overhung corner. Struggle up the corner to a superb ledge above the void. 3 40m 4b In the center of the ledge climb the steep left facing corner to gain the summit ridge. 4 40m Scramble along the ridge to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
25 - Euro Trash
Length: 121m Wolfgang Schuessler, Ambrose Flynn 30/07/11 This route climbs the groove system to the left of "A Puffin Too Far" on the sea ward face of Cnoc Na Mara. Pitch 1. 20m Climb the wall to the right of the large sea level recess to a large ledge. (as for A Puffin Too Far) Pitch 2. 20m Climb the staircase above trending left to a large ledge. Pitch 3. 26m 4B Follow the V groove and continue up a higher groove. Gain the slopey ledge below the roof. Pitch 4. 25m 4B Exit stage right and surmount the roof, continue up to reach the sea ward summit ridge. Pitch 5. 30m Follow ridge to the summit View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
26 - Lurking Fear
VD Length: 40m Iain Miller 31/05/08 Glencolmcille, beside Tormore Island. This route climbs the 25 mtr stack in the secluded wee bay 2 km North East of An Port. (GR556906) Access is by a 200 mtr steep grass bum slide to a superb wee pebble beach. Stack was access by child's inf dingy and the route takes the seaward face starting at the Northern end. Pitch 1, 20mtr, Starting at the wee tidal stance climb the steep wall of immaculate jugs to gain the easy angled ramp, pad up ramp to sausauge shaped block. Pitch 2, 20 mtr, Continue up ramp to a very odd pillar, make an airy move up behind it and crawl to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
27 - An Appointment with Fear.
VS Length: 25m Iain Miller 15/04/10 This route climbs the South Face/Ridge of the 25 mtr "Lurking Fear" stack in the secluded wee bay 2 km North East of An Port. (GR G556906) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| ACCESS: Access to Tormore Island and The Hidden Stack is an involved affair! Follow the access details as for Glenlough Bay stacks. Once on the beach, 'coastaleer' your way West along the high water mark to the channel facing The Hidden Stack. For Tormore Island there is a further channel crossing to reach the non tidal platform at the bottom of the landward face of Tormore. From car to base of route approx 3.5 hrs! |
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28 - Tormore Island
VS Length: 200m Iain Miller, Pete McConnel, Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 10/08/08 Grid 555909. The is the largest of a number of huge stacks north of Port. Difficult of access other than by boat. Legend, and Haskett Smith, has it that a young man died out there during the famine, having been cut off by bad weather. Local men went out later, and buried him there, on a grassy area named Borraigh Na Cahal.Not aware of any recent verified ascents until 10/08/08 (see below) This route climbs the very obvious landward arete at the Eastern End of the island. This feature can be clearly seen from any position along this coast overlooking the stack. Access to this stack by land is an involved affair and a boat approach is recommended. Pitch 1. 45m Starting on the non-tidal ledge in the centre of the landward face directly opposite "Hidden Stack," climb the blunt arete to the right of the vertical Basalt vein and follow the corners & ledges on superb quartz to a large block belay. Pitch 2. 40m Continue up the Arete on slabby mixed ground to below a huge capping roof, peg belay. Pitch 3. 45m Climb direct on superb rock to the left end of the huge roofs and become increasingly aware of your surroundings. Pass the roofs on your left & continue on mixed ground to a huge ledge & peg belay. Pitch 4 45m Climb near vertical grass to an exposed wee ridge, follow the ridge for 15m to a block belay. Pitch 5. 20m Scramble up the grassy ridge to the summit. Descent is by 4 abseils back down the route using the block and peg belays described. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
29 - Hidden Stack
VD Length: 42m Adam Wainwright, Iain Miller 13/10/10 Grid Reference G556907. Hidden Stack sits in the channel separating "Tormore Island" and "Cobblers Tower." Access is by a superb paddle from the storm beach as for "Cnoc na Mara." This route climbs the Southern Ridge, the first feature on the stack you see as you paddle up the channel towards it. Pitch 1. 15m From the non tidal platform at the base of the South end, climb the up the left side of the South facing ridge to a large ledge. Pitch 2. 15m Continue up the ridge to a lonely huge Basalt boulder. Pitch 3. 12m Scramble along the summit ridge. Abseil descent down the seaward face from the Basalt boulder. The sea around "Hidden Stack" are very tetchy indeed and require due nautical care. :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
30 - Southern Stack
XS 4cLength: 45m Ian Chestnut, Iain Miller 10/05/09 Grid Reference 567907. This route climbs the Landward face of the Southern most stack in the Lonely and awesome Glenlough Bay. Access is 3KM cliff top walk from the An Port road end, a 150 mtr scramble down to sea level and an 80 mtr sea passage. Cliff top descent details as for "Darkness Descends and Jenga" Stacks. Abseil descent of route. 1 35m 4c At the Southern end of the landward face, climb the left trending groove and continue upwards to a huge grassy ledge. Classic stack ground, a mixture of good/poor rock and a hint of insanity. 2 10m 4c From the centre of the grassy ledge climb the very obvious bulging and very wide crack on surprisingly good rock and moves to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
31 - Darkness descends
D Length: 95m Iain Miller (Gri-Gri Solo) 25/11/08 Grid Reference 568908. Climbs the landward face of this stack. From the large crater/pod at the bottom left of the landward face(South), follow the right trending hand crack up the slabs(Northward). Continue right (North) through heather/grot and atmosphere to gain the foot of the North Ridge. Scramble up the ridge to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
32 - Rainman
Length: 75m Iain Miller (Gri-Gri solo) 25/11/08 Grid Reference 568908. The landward face of this stack. From the pod/crater at the bottom (south) of the landward face climb direct to the summit, up superb slabs and possitive holds! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
33 - Jenga
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E2 5aLength: 50m Iain Miller, Desmond Oconnor 28/12/08 IN Glenlough Bay, 3 KM North East of the An Port road end a 30 metre tower sits on the beach between the high and low water lines. GR569908. This tower is an extremely serious climb, a fall from the last 12 metres would be fatal. Pitch 1: 15m 4a. Starting on the high water line at the southern end of the landward face, climb the knobbly quartz to a small stance and make a superb rising traverse above the roofs/cave towards the sea to a large airy ledge above the void. Pitch 2: 35m 5a. Follow a raising traverse North to the center of the sea ward face. Climb the right trending fault to the southern end of the knife edge summit ridge. Scramble along ridge to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| Glenlough Bay (North Headland) |
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34 - Ends of the Earth Stack
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D Length: 20m Iain Miller 22/06/10 Grid Reference G568914 This excellent wee stack sits in a very lonely and exposed location 300m out to sea from the bay to the North of Glenlough bay, approx 4.5km from the An Port road end. This stack is efficiently guarded by an extremely tetchy Neptune and is a serious undertaking. :-) Climb the superb jug covered flake up the centre of the landward face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
35 - Davie Jones Locker
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S 4aLength: 20m Iain Miller 22/06/10 on the sea ward face of "Ends of the Earth Stack," Climb the right trending groove/cave. (internal caterpiller stylee) Pull out and jug haul to summit. Immaculate rock, superb climbing and a location that will live long in your memory! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
36 - The Entrance to Hades
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S Length: 20m Iain Miller 22/06/10 On the sea ward face of "Ends of the Earth Stack" starting 3 metres to the left of The enormous slot climbed by "Davie Jones Locker," Jug haul up the steepest part of the face, pull round the roof on it's left and stand on the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
37 - The Unforgiving
XS Length: 110m Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 04/07/09 Grid Reference 573916. This 60m twin headed beast sit's in a very remote/lonely location, 4.5km North of the An Port roadend.. It is fiercely guarded by monster cliffs and a very atmospheric gothic sea channel. Access on FA was a 750m superb paddle from the headland just North of Glenlough Bay around Neptune's wrath to the southern end of the beast. Descent of the stack is by Guile.
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38 - Pyramid Stack
S Length: 160m Iain Miller 29/06/10 Grid Ref G583920. This twin headed stack was climbed as an East to West ridge traverse (& back). Access is by 5km cliff top trek from An Port, followed by a very steep 300m steep grass down climb and a 300m paddle around the grassy island between the stack and land. It's location is mind blowing and is prone to monster seas. A very serious stack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| Gull Island |
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39 - Satan
XS 5aLength: 90m Iain Miller, Martin Boner 19/05/09 GR612926 This monster sits to the west of Gull Island in a very remote and inaccessible location. Access details as for Gull Island followed by a 500 mtr sea passage around Gull Island and through a gothic channel between the 2 stacks to the only landing place on Satan. Abseil descent of route.
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40 - Gull Island
XS 5aLength: 145m Iain Miller, Martin Boner 24/04/09 GR 613924. This route climbs the outrageous, soaring landward arete of this beast. Access is a monster walk in from GR613889 over Slievetooey (472m). Access to base of the stack is a 100m steep grass/mixed ground scramble to truly atmospheric location on the boulder beach at the base of the stack. Descent from summit is by guile and 2 abseils down the route. This route has to be seen to be believed! Pitch 1, 50m, 4a. To the West of the landward arete climb the huge corner crack until it terminates. Traverse right & ascend the ramp to gain arete & PB. (2 good gear placements in 50m, fall & U will die) Pitch 2, 50m, Continue up the Arete by a very atmospheric scramble to the big block @ the top of the boulder field. Pitch 3, 45m, Crimp left and ascend up superb rock, continue to the summit by your easiest route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
41 - Arch Stack
S 4aLength: 25m Iain Miller 09/06/11 Grid Ref B708075 1 KM to the south of Maghery Village, this outstanding wee Arch stack provides an excellent day out. Climb the sea ward face by the overhung right facing groove and follow the shallow corner up the centre of the slab to a wee niche below a head wrecking steepness. Step right above BIG AIR and climb the steep right facing corner to the salvation of the summit. If you are alone at this point your mind will be in tatters! :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| Aran Island. |
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42 - Dragon's Back Stack
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D Length: 40m Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 24/07/11 Grid Ref B636144. Climb the landward ridge of this immaculate wee stack on perfect black granite. Access is by "Gully of the Gods," and involves a surreal paddle through the pounding heart of Darkness. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
43 - Blood Line
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XS Length: 40m Steven "Jock" Read, Paul Brennan, Iain Miller 23/07/11 Grid Ref B636147. The Iconic Sea Stack known locally as "Stackiniller," Sits in a truly outstanding location in a monster amphitheatre nautical sculptured madness at the South West tip of Aranmore Island. Access to sea level is by "Gully of the Gods" and is the only sane access to the foot of this cauldron. The stack is climbed by a well defined seaward facing corner on the sea ward ridge to a large airy stance. Continue up the wall above on broken egg shells to gain a huge left trending offwidth. Ascend the overhanging offwidth by guile to a mind blowing summit. An ascent of this stack will live forever in your "what the fuck was I doing" memory. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
44 - Humped Ridge Stack
Length: 35m Iain Miller 08/06/10 Grid Reference B641155. This excellent 35m Quartz stack sits at the Northern end of the lonely wee bay just to the North of Cronagarn Hill on the South West tip of Aran Island. Access is by a steep grassy scramble down to a huge storm beach in the bay to the East of the stack. Followed by a 300m sea passage. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
45 - The Landward Ridge.
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D Length: 85m Iain Miller 25/07/09 Grid Reference B 643188. This route climbs the superb landward ridge of the seastack found below the lighthouse at Rinrawros Point on Aran Island.
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46 - Broken Arrow.
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VD Length: 50m Iain Miller 25/07/09 Grid Reference B643188. This route climbs directly up the North face of the stack below the light house on Aran Island.
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Giant's Reek Stack. This 100m stack can be easily seen from any point on this huge basin of sea cliffs, from Torneady point at the North to Rinrawros point to the West. Access to this stack is by boat and extrme caution is required. |
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47 - The Seaward Ridge.
XS Length: 140m Iain Miller, James Crowe 08/08/09 Grid Reference B653190. This route climbs the steep seaward ridge of this 120m monster stack. Sitting in the midst of an ampitheatre of huge cliffs, access is by an ULTRA committing paddle around Torneady point or by RiB. Abseil descent of the route.
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48 - Fu Manchu
XS Length: 140m Dave Miller, Steven "Jock" Read 08/08/09 Grid Reference B653190. Access is as per the Seaward Ridge. This climb takes the line of least resistance on the landward face of the afore mentioned monster stack off the beautiful Arran more Island.Start from the right hand side of the obvious tidal platform at the base of the stack.
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Torbeg Stack. This stack sits to the West the atmospheric Torneady Point at the Northern tip of Aran Island. Access is by boat. |
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49 - South Face Route
VD Length: 55m Iain Miller, Phillip Stevens 16/07/09 Grid Reference B654196. This stack sits just to the West of the Northern tip of Aran Island. Access is difficult and an atmospheric and commiting paddle was made from around the headland to the North. Abseil descent of route. Pitch 1. 45m From the small access ledge/recess at the southern end of the landward face, climb up jugs and the left facing corner,to a large ramp overlooking the channel. Pitch 2. 10m Climb the steep juggy corner to the southern summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
50 - Dead Man's Fingers
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HS 4bLength: 85m Phillip Stevens, Iain Miller 16/07/09 Grid Reference B654196. This route climbs the North Face of this stack. Access and descent as for the South Face route. Pitch 1, 4b, 30m. Starting at the Northern end of the landward face (where the sea level tongue spits out) climb the black slab & wall. Stepleft and continue up the jug fest to a large belay ramp. Pitch 2, 4b, 25m. Climb the flake crack out right and continue left, ascend the steep groove to belay on the summit ridge. Pitch 3, 30m. An excellent and airy summit ridge traverse to the southern summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| Owey Island. |
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51 - Finbarr's Stack
D Length: 25m Finbarr Mullin 22/06/09 This is the stack between Torglas Tower and Owey, and just north of Torglas itself. Ascent was by a series of big stepped ledges on the seaward side. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
52 - Fandango
D Length: 8m Alan Tees, Sandra Kennedy, Valli Schafer, PJ Monaghan 23/06/07 On Owey Island. South of Dragon Bay, and slightly South of Torglass, scramble down to this small detached pillar, wider at the top than the bottom, and climb it by the landward facing edge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
53 - Staca Bhui
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HVS 5bLength: 16m D.Millar & M.Bonner Climbs the stunning narrow sea-stack North of Torglass Island on the West side of Owey Island. Paddle out to the island n stack North of Torglass Island by any means possible. Belay on large sloping ledge at base of crack n groove on stacks North wall. Climb the stack on its North side via crack at first then groove to its top. Belay on eastern side of summit. Crux is entering the groove. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
54 - Fracture Stack
VD Length: 40m Alan Tees, Ivan Kyrella, Bill Magowan22/06/09 This is the big stack NW of Torglas (Owey) with the remarkable leaning pillar, which can look like a window from many places. Land in the cave/arch facing Torglas Tower. A difficult move right,around a corner, leads to delightfully easy climbing on good granite to the summit ridge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
55 - By Hook or by Crook
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E1 5bLength: 20m Iain Miller, Steven "Jock" Read 26/06/10 This route climbs the West face of the leaning tower on "Fracture Stack." Scramble/cave your way to the seaward face of the tower (between the tower and the parent stack) to the massive seaward platforms. At the seaward end of the west face of the tower climb the series of ledges to the left of the obvious roof crack. Micro wires needed. DO NOT attempt to land on the seaward face of this stack as the funnelling effect of the sea between "Fracture Stack" and "Neptunes Lair Stack" is UBER dramatic. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
56 - Nautical Folly
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S 4aLength: 30m Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson, Martin Boner 27/06/09 At the seaward end of the East facing wall of Fracture Stack (facing the Lady of Torglas stack) there sits a large tital platform. Climb the prominent right facing corner in the centre of the seaward wall directly above the ledge. Superb rock and holds all the way to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
57 - The White Rage
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S Length: 20m Iain Miller, Steven "Jock" Read 26/06/10 Grid Ref B707226. This dramatic little stack sits to the North West of Fracture stack and is guarded by a modicum of Neptunes Wrathe. The South East face is an excellent wall of immaculate wave battered cracks and features. This route climbs the most obvious deep crack in the left of centre of the wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
58 - Cavers Delight
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HS 4aLength: 20m Steven "Jock" Read, Iain Miller 26/06/10 Grid Ref B707226. On the land ward face of this excellent little stack climb the groove / face immediately to the left of the monster chimney/gash at the right hand end of the face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
59 - Taming The Dragon
D Length: 40m A.Tees, Bill Magowan (Alt.leads) 24/09/2000 On Owey Island. A fine outing, spectacular and photogenic, on the sea stack in the bay. Cross from the sea facing mainland wall and climb the right hand side of the sea arch to belay at a block on the top. Continue over the arch and climb ramp on mixed rock and some vegetation to belay. Traverse pinnacled ridge to highest block at the far end. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
60 - Big Block Stack
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S Length: 15m Iain Miller 06/05/11 Grid Reference B716239. This stack sits off the North West tip of Owey and is very easily seen from the Owey ferry pier on Cruit. It is very effectively guarded by 60m cliffs and conflicting seas for over a Km along the coast. It's location is outstanding. Climb the deep left trending crack/groove on the sea ward (East) face. The summit takes green in BIG West and North West seas, the entire stack is immaculate rock. :-) Access is an involved and emotional affair. :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
61 - The Spire
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VD Length: 15m Iain Miller 06/05/11 Grid Reference B716239. This stack sits off the North West tip of Owey, it sits immediately to the South of the "Big Block Stack," which is very easily seen from the Owey ferry pier on Cruit. It is very effectively guarded by 60m cliffs and conflicting seas for over a Km along the coast. It's location is outstanding. Climb the South ridge on immaculate granite. Access by guile. :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
62 - Blade
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E2 5bLength: 20m Andrzej Smialy & Party 4/07/03 This is the stack named "Stackamillion." From the top of the landward platform climb the wide groove to the small capping roof. (2 pegs) Pull through roof to a wee airy stance, trend seaward and up to summit on rattling blocks. Originally graded VII UIAA. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
63 - Cladagharoan
S 3cLength: 35m Iain Miller, Emma Ross, Caoimhe Gleeson 20/06/09 Grid Reference B717236. This stack is found to the seaward side of Stackamillion. Access is by a 40m abseil and an atmospheric wee sea passage to the non tidal platform at the West end of the seaward face. (nearest Stackamillion) Abseil descent of the route from the insitu stake on the summit ridge. Pitch 1. 3c 25m. Climb the very obvious groove directly above the non tidal platform to the Ab stake on the summit ridge. Pitch 2. 10m. Carefully scramble/crawl to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
64 - Greater Leap Isle
VD Length: 27m Martin Mc Guigan, Alan Tees, Bill Magowan Grid ref7179723259 on Owey Island, 10 minutes North of the harbour. An obvious rectangular window through the sea stack on the left hand side looking out to sea is The Window. Starting at sea level up to a ledge and bridge up the window to a large slab of rock and an easy scramble to the top. Martin McGuigan originally called this the Alamo, but it has also a Gaelic name. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
65 - Tor Na Dumhcha
Length: 20m Iain Miller, Martin Boner 21/02/09 This 20 metre stack is situated just off the Lower Glashagh headland (Gweedore) at GR 803304. Access is by a short sea passage. The stacks south face is a 20 mtr vertical wall of excellent "Gola" type sea battered granite. Directions: From Jacks Hotel as you leave Gweedore take the sharp left and follow the B class road to the small beach carpark. On foot follow the coastal path North over several new wooden bridges to the headland overlooking the stack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
66 - Green Stack Rocks (landward)
D Length: 10m M. Boner 2009 2 km from The Foreland Heights Bar heading north on the R257 take a left at a sharp right hand bend and follow B road to viewing area on left at Altawhinny bay follow pathway to shale beach and short walk to Twin tidal stacks Dorchas and Faoilean, Dorchas is nearest to beach. Dorchas Grid Ref B815333 Climb landward arete to summit. Faoilean Grid Ref B815332 Climb land ward face to summit by several ledges. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
67 - Green Stack Rocks (Seaward)
D No length recorded M Boner 2009 2 km from The Foreland Heights Bar heading north on the R257 take a left at a sharp right hand bend and follow B road to viewing area on left at Altawhinny bay follow pathway to Triplet stacks Gluin, Scolt and unclimbed stack is take gravel Road on left 100 mtrs past viewing area and follow to end Access to these three tidal stacks is by 45mtrs Abseil to Shale beach or Small boat journey crossing. Gluin 25 mtrs VD Grid Ref B813334 Climb landward arete to alcove between needle and stack and traverse along narrow ledge and exit to summit at small chimney on poor rock. Scolt 22mtrs VS 4c Grid Ref B813333 Climb crack on Seaward face that widens as you ascent to 10cm wide at summit by several ledges on poor rock. Stol 30mtrs VS 4c Grid Ref B813335 Climb a right trending diagonal crack with poor protection to a small ledge near seaward face, from here climb vertical crack to cliff top via small ledges on poor rock & limited protection, scramble up to summit on grass. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
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68 - Sea Ward Face Route
S 4aLength: 45m Phillip Stevens, Martin Boner 18/07/09 Grid Reference B868463. This route climbs the seaward face of the largest and central stack of the trio North of the Tower on the Island of Tory. Access is by a 50 mtr abseil and a superb wee sea passage.
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69 - Proper Mission
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S 4aLength: 40m Iain Miller, Wolfgang Schuessler 27/07/11 Grid Ref. B868463. Climb the outstanding landward arete of the centre stack. Pitch 1. 10m 4a. Climb the steep face directly below the arete to a large slabby stance. Pitch 2. 30m 4a. Climb the arete on excellent rock, holds and gear. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
70 - The Landward Face
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VS 4cLength: 45m Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 18/07/09 Grid Reference B868462. This route climbs the landward face of the superb stack immediately to the North of the tower on the island of Tory. Access by 50 metre abseil and a wee sea passage. Pitch 1, 4B, 20m. From the base of the landward face, climb the slab & step/swing over the void. Continue upward on massive jugs to belay on the ramp. Pitch 2, 4c, 25m. Scramble up the ramp, & thrutch up the very obvious chimney. Continue up the very wide crack on superb rock to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
71 - North Face Route.
Length: 43m Phillip Stevens, Martin Boner. 10/07/09 Grid Reference B868462. This route climbs the Norhern face of the Southern Stack, starting at the land ward end of the channel separating the 2 stacks.
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72 - Main Summit
VS 5aLength: 45m Phillip Stevens, Iain Miller 19/07/09 Grid Reference B869461, This route climbs the landward face of the left hand summit of the ULTRA obvious "V" shaped stack, Immediately to the south of the "tower" on the island of Tory. Access is by a 50m easy angled abseil and a short sea passage, descent is by abseil of route. Pitch 1, 5A, 25m. Starting below the meeting of the twin summits, climb the steep corner, step left & continue to a superb belay between the summits. Pitch 2, 4a, 20m. Climb to the left hand summit via the very obvious summit chimney. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
73 - Red Wall
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HVS 5aLength: 43m Phillip Stevens, Iain Miller 19/07/09 Grid Reference B869461. This route climbs the right hand summit of the "V" stack on the island of Tory. Access and descent as for main summit. Pitch 1, 5A, 25m. as for main summit route. Pitch 2, 5A, 18m. From the recess between the twin summits, climb the thin ramp rightward, and continue leftward, climb to the summit up broken cracks. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
74 - Dun Balai
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VD Length: 50m Iain Miller, Richie Khanna 15/08/10 Grid Reference B876463. At the Eastern end of Tory Island and sitting in an outstanding location at the base of a wall of 80m sea cliffs is a remote and UBER intimidating 55m sea stack. This route climbs the center of the West face. (sea ward face) Pitch 1. 25m From the center of the sea ward face climb the right facing corner and up ledges to a large stance below a right trending crack. Pitch 2. 25m Climb the short steep crack and ascend a series of right trending steps to the summit. Access is by an ultra committing 700m paddle from the wee storm beach at GR B876455 and descent of the stack is by abseil down the route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
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75 - Windy Gap
Length: 20m A.McFarlane, P.Turley,R.O'Hare 23/10/88 On Inishowen, near Shroove. Donegal sheet 3.Continuing beyond Port-a-doris cove, is a bay with a split sea stack accessible across the rocks. The dividing fissure is gained from the right by a short traverse above the sea. Continue through the centre of the stack to the far end where'Windy Gap' is found. Gain the fissure and chimney to the top. A classic route View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
76 - Oak Arete
Length: 25m B. Whelan, I. Miller 16/06/10 Grid Ref C302428 This route climbs the seaward face of the lonely wee stack in the bay a km to the South of Lenan Bay beach. Access is by Lenankeel farm road followed by a 150m sea passage from the storm beach to the South of the stack. Pitch 1. 10m Scramble up the black ramp & up through a wee groove to a large platform high above the high water mark. Pitch 2. 15m Climb the arete direct to the summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
77 - Lenan Needle
VD -Length: 20m I. Miller, B. Whelan 11/06/10 Grid Ref C296446. This route climbs the easy angled South Face of the Wee sea stack just off Lenan Head. Access is by Abseil to the tidal platforms facing the southern end of the stack, followed by a short atmospheric sea passage. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
78 - Lackgolana
D Length: 15m P.Cooper & ATees July 07 Gr.431507 off Malin pier. Small twin humped stack. Scramble up landward hump and acsoss arete to higher top. Undoubtedly done before millions of times View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
79 - Stookanillar
D Length: 40m George Carlton, Bill Magowan 2007 Grid C411545. Near Malin Head. Joined to the land and probably scrambled up many times before by local and herds of goats! Mixed grass and rock. Should be an abseil post on top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
80 - Stookanillar, South Ridge
Length: 50m Iain Miller 13/06/10 Grid Ref C411545. This route climbs the prominient ridge in the centre of the south face of Stookanillar sea stack. Acess is by boulder hop at lowest tide and an outstanding uber steep traverse on Quartz jugs above deep water to gain the sea ward platforms. From the base of the sea ward face of the ridge climb the superb black slabs and up the airy ridge to the huge grassy summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
81 - The Big Cigar
VD Length: 25m Martin McGuigan & Peter McConnell, 2007 Dec. Grid C411545. Donegal Sheet 3. Beside Stookanillar, (near Malin Head), this is a free standing pinnacle, detached, just, from the cliff. The fissure at the back was soloed, (mostly) by Marty McGuigan, while Peter climbed onto it from the top of the cliff. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
82 - Stookarudden
D Length: 40m Not Known East of Malin Head, Inishowen, Donegal sheet 3. Grid C456583. Possible access at very low tide. Alan Tees and Bonny Pailing canoed out in July 07 and from landward side, scrambled up rightward to grassy shoulder, and up steep grass to top. Descended down rocky landward ridge in time to see the kayaks drift off! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
83 - Inaugural Stack
D Length: 25m Dennis Helliwell, John Whittow and Boyd Jack 30/04/55 At Mullans Point Malin, Gr 453581. This stack has two arches, is connected to the mainland at low tide, and looks like a seal, when viewed from the clifftop. Descend by grassy rake to the East, across bouldery beach, at low tide, under big overhanging wall, to pillar separating the stack from the mainland. Around the back of the pillar and scramble diaginally up grass to exposed arete, and over saddle to the top. This was climbed on the first ever meet of NWMC, as per the club log. Climbed again 8/11/09 by Alan Tees and Bill Magowan. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
84 - Pinnacle LV
Length: 8m Alan Tees, Brian Johnston This is the short pinnacle which shows above the cliff edge East of Stookarudden Gr461578. It was attempted on the first outing of NWMC in April 1955, and climbed as part of the club's 55th anniversary celebrations. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
85 - Skildren Mor
VD Length: 120m Martin Mc Guigan ; John Joe Mc Cullagh 19/8/06 C353592. This route was named "the Gannets Nest".Cross the sea channel at the narrowest point to get to the bottom of the stack . Climb up vertically just under a Gannett’s nest on good jugs. Traverse left over Quartz and loose rubble to a loose belay. Continue traversing up over a sound ramp to a corner, belay. Scramble to the top from here. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
86 - Crabs Claw
VS 4cLength: 12m First led ascent Martin McGuigan (Route Lasooed cleaned and climbed A.Tees, T. Philson 31/07/95 At Culdaff, Inishowen, Donegal Sheet 3. Grid Ref C537513 The Route named "Swanns Monument" climbs the higher of two pinnacles in the bay. Gain horizontal crack from the gap, move out left above the sea, and continue up on small holds. More Details View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
87 - Clove Rock
Length: 10m B.Bogle,C.Tees, A. Bogle, P.Coulter 20/06/92 At Culdaff, Inishowen, Donegal Sheet 3. Grid C537513 The smaller of two pinnacles in Pinnacle Bay. Start in the gap between the two pinnacles View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
88 - Pouting Pinnacle
Length: 8m A,Tees,various,& The G.P.L. Grid Ref C537512, Pinnacle Bay Dunowen, Culdaff Donegal Sheet 3. This climbs the short off-width on the west face of the pinnacle at tne East end of pinnacle bay. Surmount the off-width on good holds,to ledge & right to top. Descent by abseil. Good fun, View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
89 - The Crows Nest
S 4aLength: 25m J Rotherham, P Grant (1979) Grid C629470, at Dungloon, Kinnego, Inishowen, Donegal sheet 3. The route is "Rusty Rigging" Directly opposite the Black Wall is a prominent sea stack known as the 'Crow's Nest'. The route takes the left-hand side of the stack starting from the platform. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
90 - Golden Hind
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HS 4bLength: 20m Alan Tees, Columba McLaughlin 15/08/10 This is one of the stacks in the Galleon "Fleet" at Kinnego, situated just West of the "Crows Nest". Gr 629470. It is separated from the shore by a narrow channel, and has a tilted yellow roof. The Tees-McLaughlin crack faces West, and is not obvious from the shore. At low tide, a short reasonably sheltered crossing leads to a slanting corner/ledge, with a better ledge higher on the left. Climb the crack on good holds and gear, until an exposed move right leads onto the upper wall. Follow thinner cracks rightwards to the roof. What a cracker! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
93 - Crann Nolag
Length: 20m Alan Tees.Finbarr Mullin Add route description here... This is the most interesting of a
number of stacks on the shore below the Bens near Glengad. Approach
past the Glengad United football pitch and abandon you car somewhere
beyond. Descend 250m to sea level to Gr C499560, and locate the stack
with a Matterhorn look about it. It may still have a big red ball
attached to the top, in which case identification will be a lot
easier!! Low tide will mean you don't have to get your feet wet.
Climb easily up a slab, followed by a short ridge, with great rock and
handholds, to a ledge below the top. There was an old cormorant's
nest here with a set of Christmas lights in it. A short 4a move onto
another small slab leads to the top. *** I think. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
94 - Crannstackie
Length: 20m Finbarr Mullin, Alan Tees, 21/06/2017 Add route description here... For approach see Crann Nolag. This is
the next stack to the east. Climb easily up a solid cracked slab,
with lots of gear options, to the top. easily climbdownable. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
95 - Crann Waan
Length: 15m A.Tees, F.Mullin, 21/06/2017 Add route description here... Approach as for Crann Nolag. The first
stack (totally non tidal) coming from the east. Scramble up a
partially grassy arête to the top. Probably more interesting to
climb it from the shore on the east dide via a wide diedre to gain the
ridge. Not even Moderate I would think, but good viewpoint. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
91 - Chimney Stack
D 3cLength: 6m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees 16/10/09 This is the leftmost of four similar pinnacles at Leenan Gr 299446Cross assorted rubble, and belay abreast of a “FireplaceShaped “ depression. Delicate moves up curious rectangular blocks lead to a narrow ledge. Mantlepiece onto smaller ledge high on the right, and airy climbing leads to the narrow summit. Descent is by gravity., Early start recommended to avoid overnight bivvy. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
92 - Kaytoo
VD 3cLength: 35m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, alt leads This stack is accessible at low tide, by steep ascent to the shore east of Carrickaveol. The stack is at approx 486567. Climb up the left side of the landward facing wall to gain the "Abruzzi" ridge, which is followed rightwards to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
MB1 - Up sliver strand stack without a paddle
Length: 20m 5MAY2012 (climbfest)- S, Read, McNamara, McCullagh and E Mullan (Shannon group) This stack nestles off the right hand side of the sliver strand beach as you look out to sea from the car park above the silver strand at Malin Beg. Scramble across the rocks and cliffs on the right hand side of the Silver strand beach shortly after a small arch you’ll come to the first sea cave. From here, or directly off the rhs of the beach, a fairly handy paddle (if you have one) should get you out to the stack. The best climbing is on the landward facing side of the stack, the rock is excellent and there is lots of potential for many fine routes on this face. Without a paddle starts from the highest square platform directly opposite a nice sea arch on the landward face. From the platform follow the central cracks and edges between a seaward arête on the left and a small recessed corner on the right. This wall finishes after 15 meters at small loose platform about 5 meters from the top.Finish via an exposed, airy position up the final right hand corner, topping out on a fantastic razor sharp ridge line. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||