Route Number: 1868

Back to Crag Editor page | Back to Guidebook Editor page

The Unforgiving

Location: Sea Stacks and Pinnacles
Grade: XS
Length: 110m

First ascent: Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 04/07/09

Route Description:

Grid Reference 573916. This 60m twin headed beast sit's in a very remote/lonely location, 4.5km North of the An Port roadend.. It is fiercely guarded by monster cliffs and a very atmospheric gothic sea channel. Access on FA was a 750m superb paddle from the headland just North of Glenlough Bay around Neptune's wrath to the southern end of the beast. Descent of the stack is by Guile.

30m. Easily scramble up the south face of the southern summit.
35m. Continue upwards to the summit of the southern summit.
10m. Downclimb to the col between the two summits. Block belay.
35m. A monster pitch to the summit of the northern stack, up no grot but alas mucho loose rock/certain death and ultimately mega atmosphere. A beast for the connoisseur. :-)

The Unforgiving. XS - The land ward face of the beast.

Comments

The voice of reason - 05/07/2009
XS is defo a correct grade for this beast!