Srón Tochasach (The Itchy Nose) * * * |
Location: Owey Island (West) Grade: E5 6a Length: 70m |
First ascent: J.McCune, K.Kilroy |
Route Description: |
The following two
routes are approached by a diagonal abseil down a corner /gully with a
big chock stone. With a deviation about half way gain a non tidal big
square ledge.
Pitch 1: 6a 35m Climb a rightwards diagonal crack from the lefthand edge of the ledge. When possible follow some cracks and grooves straight up to small niche under the righthand side of the massive roof. Now traverse up and leftwards on small egdes. Place a few cams under the roof and gain an arete on the left. Pull round the arete via an exhilarating move to gain a wonderful belay ledge/cave. (Careful route finding and rope management required.) Pitch 2: 5b 10m From the belay traverse rightwards onto the hanging slab using small holds and underclings in the roof. Step down to gain the arete of the incredible hanging nose feature. Belay “au cheval” a leg either side. Pitch 3: 6a/b 25m Now follow the steep splitter crack with increasing difficulty until possible to move back left to some good ledges and a rest. Now soak up the exposure, atmosphere and life in general before attacking the strenuous overhanging exit grove. J.McCune, K.Kilroy |
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Route Number: 3075