HVS,_,_,4a,4a,4c, 4c, 5a, 4a, 4a,
Start: Scramble up the gully to below the rock step, and where an obvious grass tongue comes down the slab on the left.
- 60m Gain this grass tongue and follow it left to a small stance about 6m below a small tree and 12m below an overhang.
- 12m Continue up easily into the corner above.
- 42m Move left to spike. Step up and continue up left on thin traverse line to flake hold giving access to a turf ledge. Continue left, then right to a good stance in a corner.
- 9m Ascend left to foot of slabs (as pitch 5 of Maxfield Fryer Route).
- 42m Traverse across the short slab (usually wet). Move down slightly and continue traversing left to reach the foot of a huge flake, 5m up the wall, above a grass re - -
- 24m Climb crack to left edge of flake. Continue up the corner cracks above until it narrows to disappearing. Using fixed peg swing out across the wall to a good flake. Reach up and left to a peg in below a large block, which is used to swing across to a grassy groove on the left. Continue up to ledge and belay.
- 24m Climb the short wall above (combined tactics or aid for the initial moves) to gain the heather ledge on the right. Move to the right end of this and climb a short wall to ledge. Continue up the wet chimney
above to a large ledge. A further short step leads to a recess and belay. Difficult to arrange protection for second on the initial crux wall.
- 15m Continue up the chimney to a grass ledge running leftwards.
- 15m or 30m Either up the chimney directly above as for The Direct or drop off the left-hand of the ledge onto grass ramp and follow mixed ground to the top.
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