Route Number: 447

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The Direct *

Location: Poisoned Glen (Bearnas Buttress)
Grade: HVS  
Length: 255m
First ascent: J Williams, H Drasdo (4/69) (Pitches 1-7)
Route Description:

HVS (3 aid pts) Start: As for Linear B and Maxfield Fryer Route.

  1. 30m Zig zag up heather strips to belay at foot of a rib.
  2. 24m Move up on the right of the rib to a big flake and cross to the right hand side of the narrowing recess. Go up and through the bottleneck and then by heather onto grassy shelf.
  3. 27m Go up by cracks to a heather ledge (top of Pitch 2 of Linear B and Maxfield Fryer Route). Move up and rightwards to a bulge, climbed with one aid point. Move into crack on the right to insecure vegetation and short chimney groove at the left end of overhangs.
  4. 27m Climb chimney groove and pull out onto heather using 1 aid point. Up heather left of large flake and follow ledge rightwards to foot of heather filled chimney crack. Climb this to bottom left-hand corner of the Field and junction with Maxfield Fryer Route.
  5. 15m Walk along ledge to right, ascend short step and go up left on heather to large bollard on bottom right of big slab.
  6. 30m Step left and follow heathery gangway then ascend directly up slab and continue up corner. Surmount final step and move up to thread belay in corner.
  7. 24m Mount flake, move right and go up heather to the foot of Pitch 6 of Route Major.
  8. 24m Move right from the bottom of the corner of Route Major and climb a tower, leading out to a belay at the top of Pitch 6 of Route Major.
  9. 24m As for Route Major pitch 7.
  10. 15m As for Route Major pitch 8.
  11. 15m Follow the chimney directly above to the top.

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