Crohy Head South

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Route Code Route Name Grade Sort No
 

Some 600M+ North of the Main Crag and 100M+ beyond Pinnacle Wall Area is a far bay with large cliffs, alas the cliff tops are rotten. The following route is on a small wall on the left-hand side of the bay. From 'Five Pints Ago' continue rightwards via a narrow walkway. Abseil down to access.

Edit Route Delete
  That Dress S - Edit Route Delete
 

To the North West of Pinnacle Wall Area is an obvious slab extending for approximately 100M. This ends in a shallow bay, where the next climbs are to be found. Access via abseil.

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  Five Pints Ago VD - Edit Route Delete
  Vision Master S - Edit Route Delete
 

Pinnacle Wall Area 500M Northwards from the Main Crag, as the ground begins to rise towards an impressive headland, an impressive looking pinnacle can be seen. Pinnacle Wall is the North West facing steep wall of excellent black rock, to which the pinnacle is connected.

Access is gained by heading towards and then past the top of Pinnacle Wall A descent ramp on the right can be downclimbed. When standing on top of the short final downclimb, 'Bungalow Blitz' is on your left and 'Dope on a Rope' is on your right.

D Edit Route Delete
  Johnny's Crack D - Edit Route Delete
  Pinniclis S - Edit Route Delete
 

The next routes are on the Pinnacle Wall, starting with 'Immram Brain' at the leftmost edge of the face.

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  Immram Brain VS 5a Edit Route Delete
  'Black Pete' Crohy Head S. E1 5a Edit Route Delete
  Fir Bolg S - Edit Route Delete
  Bungalow Blitz HS 4b Edit Route Delete
 

The next climbs are on your right/ seaward side.

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  Dope on a Rope VD - Edit Route Delete
  Chappy Days VD - Edit Route Delete
  Pregzilla S - Edit Route Delete
 

The next routes are in a zawn 20M to the South, before you get to the Pinnacle Wall Area; it is easier to find them having first found the Pinnacle.

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  Hal VD - Edit Route Delete
  Route 1 S - Edit Route Delete
 

About 100m back towards the Main Wall, from Pinnacle Wall Area, are 2 narrow zawns. Between the Zawns is an obvious white band of rock. Access via abseil.

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  Leprous Lips VD Edit Route Delete
 

RED WALL AREA

North of the Main Wall Area a rock tower with a reddish coloured seaward face can be found. Routes are left to right.

D Edit Route Delete
  Ripple . HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Sunshine Corner VD - Edit Route Delete
  Muscles to Start S Edit Route Delete
  Retreat VD - Edit Route Delete
  Red Wall S - Edit Route Delete
 

North Side of Main Crag, beyond descent steps and left of the cave is a long steep wall. Around the seaward side of this is a huge easy angled slab, with a dirty corner at its left-hand side. The next two routes are on this slab and many variations are possible.

D Edit Route Delete
  Rambler D - Edit Route Delete
  Rockhopper D - Edit Route Delete
 

You've made it back to the Main Crag Area, congratulations!

The next routes are described from left to right looking at the crag and start with 'Norman's Myth' which is to the left of the descent steps.

D Edit Route Delete
  Norman's Myth HVS - Edit Route Delete
  Jaws S Edit Route Delete
  The Gourmet S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Sponges S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Wino S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Passion VD - Edit Route Delete
  Endless Cycle HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Bugs HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Out of Touch E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  Ghostie S - Edit Route Delete
  McKinstry's Crack VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Littoral manoeuvres E2 5b Edit Route Delete
  Rainman E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  Lotus Blossom E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  My Fair Lady HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Maggie's Last Munro S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Quiet Earth E2 5c Edit Route Delete
  Space Walker VS 4c Edit Route Delete