<

Editor: Cruit Island - Traderg Wall Area

What would you like to do today?

Add a route to this crag

Add an inter-route note to this crag

Delete routes on this crag

Update the order of routes on this crag

Edit the details of this crag

Return to the editor homepage

Crag Profile: Cruit Island - Traderg Wall Area

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Cruit Island - Morning Wall to Traderg Wall

Directions:

The South facing walls on the northern-end of Traderg Bay (GR 732212), which is found behind and below the 'Donegal Thatched Cottage' development on Cruit's Western end; before the golf course.

Viewed from the beach, the most obvious features are a narrow chimney,('Chimney Sweep') with a bulbous wedge shaped cliff on it's left. accessed by a rightward trending descent gully with a small stream in it, further again to the left. Best accessed at low tide!

Beyond this "Bulge" are further areas of rock, which were extensively developed during 2008: full details of those routes are contained here.

OS Grid Reference: B731212

Click here to view location in Google Maps

Scalpachore Crag. The southfacing wall of Scalpachore catches the sun early, provides many short climbs and is a pleasant place to climb in the mornings. At low to half tide it is possible to access the climbs on the R-hand (inland) side by scrambling in, otherwise abseil in. Climbs are 8 to 12m in length. Low to mid-tide only.The first 3 climbs can be accessed by abseiling down a shallow corner to a small ledge directly opposite a small rock islet.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
1 - The Last Hurrah
D -
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 24/09/08
Climb up diagonally L, finishing up just R of a large overhang.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

2 - Half Way House
S 4a
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 29/08/10
Mid way between "The Last Hurrah" capping roof and the "An Graine" arete, climb the superb hand crack though a mid height roof and direct to top.  
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

3 - Ga gréine
*
D
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 24/09/2008
From the small ledge climb the arete on the R.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

4 - Black Gold
*
S
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 27/08/10
Climb the centre of the black slab 2 metres to the right of the "An Graine" arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

5 - Wriggle n Win
HS 4b
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 27/08/10
Climb the groove 2 metres to the right of "Black Gold," with a cheeky steep crux.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

6 - Left Hand Path
D -
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 29/08/10
Climb the wide left trending groove up the Arete, 5m right of "An Graine" Arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

7 - Rowers Head Rage
HS 4b
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 27/08/10
Climb the thinner/steeper left trending hand crack, 3m right of and parallel to "Left Hand Path."  
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

8 - Tooty Boots
VS 4b
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 20/09/10
Climb the arete 2nd left from "The Vice" groove, steeper than it looks.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

9 - The Vice
*
S 4a
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 27/08/10
Climb the steep, deep black V Groove. 5m to the right of the "Left Hand Path" arete. 
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

10 - Bran
D -
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 19/04/08
The arete 2m R of a wide, broken corner. Either scramble or abseil in.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

11 - The Chimney
S 4a
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 29/08/10
Climb the narrow chimney to the right of the "Bran" arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

12 - Cookie Jar
D -
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 21/09/10
Climb the crack 1m right of "The Chimney."
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

13 - Forkentown
*
HVS 5a
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 20/09/10
Climb the superb steep corner 3m to the left of "Lest We Forget."
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

14 - Lest We Forget
D -
Length: 10m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 19/04/2008
The vertical corner crack, which starts immediately L of a platform above the high water mark, at the R-hand end of the wall.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

15 - Friend of Freud
*
S
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 20/09/10
Climb the centre of the immaculate wall, 1m to the right of the "Lest We Forget" corner.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

16 - An Gaeilgeoir.
HS
Length: 10m
G. Moss & L. Convery 11/05/08
The vertical crack just right of Lest We Forget is steep and juggy.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

17 - Whale Fish
HVS 5a
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 21/09/10
3m to the right and round the corner from "An Gaeilgeoir," Climb the hard vertical crack to the mid-height stance shared with "An Gaeilgeoir" and continue on easier ground to top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

18 - Black Arete
S -
Length: 12m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 21/09/10
6m to the right of "Whale Fish" climb the full crag height arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

19 - Vision Quest
* *
VS 5a
Length: 50m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 27/08/10
A superb high tide sea level traverse of Scalpachore Crag. Start in the boulder beach between Scalpachore Crag and The Inland Crag, traverse "out to sea" until on the platforms at the seaward tip of the crag. A route best savoured when Neptune is in the building! :-) 
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


Inland Crag. Just south of Morning Wall, at the back of a cove and facing out to sea.A place to climb when high tides are running. It suffers a little from seepage, but benefits from the sun. Climbs are 10 to 14m long.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
20 - Hug
D -
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 24/09/08
Climb the column near the L-hand end of the crag, moving L at the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

21 - Glaine ár gcroí.
VD
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 24/09/08
Climb the intermittent crack line 1m L of the dyke splitting the crag and move up over two steps to a belay.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

22 - Neart ár lámh
VD
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 10/05/08
Climb the dyke on large holds, stepping L at the top to finish at the highest point.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

23 - Beart de réir ár mbriathair
VD
Length: 10m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 10/05/08
Climb the fault line 2m R of the dyke.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


Tráthnóna Wall. Just south of the Inland Crag.Often greasy in the mornings and for this reason best left until after lunch. Approach by scrambling down from the L-hand (northern) end. The L-hand section of this wall is characterised by a series of L-facing slabs, best seen from above Morning Wall. Climbs are 12 to 14m in length. Low to mid-tide only.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
24 - Rock Pool Wall
S 4a
Length: 10m
D. O'Connor, I. Miller 02/08/10
10m to the left (North) of the "Clean Sweep/Iron Man" slab there is a deep rock pool with a wee island. Climb the left trending cracks up the steep wall behind this pool.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

25 - Wave Escape
D -
Length: 10m
I. Miller 02/08/10
To the left of "Clean Sweep," climb the easy dark groove. Worth noting if high seas swamp your belay.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

26 - Clean Sweep
VS 4c
Length: 12m
I. Miller, D. O'Connor 02/08/10
To the left of "Iron Man" climb the up the centre of the clean slab. Easily at first up ledges then up a series of ever decreasing holds/crimps up the smooth summit nose. 
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

27 - Iron Man
S -
Length: 12m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 18/04/2008
Start at the bottom R of the first L-facing slab, at sea level. Follow the R edge to the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

28 - Titanium Man
HS 4b
Length: 12m
D. O'Connor, I. Miller 02/08/10
Climb the corner as for "Iron Man," step right at it's top onto a airy stance on the seaward face. Climb the deep crack to an involved mantle onto the ledge above and up to the summit.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

29 - Two Ends of a Middle
HVS 5a
Length: 12m
David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
The first crack in the bulging wall between Iron Man and Joe L’s Jaunt. There are two variations possible, the start is the crux for both. Strenuous moves gain a good ledge to the left of where the crack forks. The left fork can be climbed easily or the right with a tricky move through a bulge near the top. Most tides.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

30 - Seggílegge
VS 5a
Length: 10m
David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
The crack to the right of Two Ends of a Middle. The start is the crux. Either make a difficult move off the ground to gain a jug or simply jump up. Climb the crack to the top making copious use of the flake crack to the left. May feel difficult to the vertically challenged! Most tides.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

31 - Trio
VS 5a
Length: 12m
David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
A right to left diagonal of the wall. Start as for Seggílegge, gain the flake crack and move up and left into Two Ends of a Middle right hand finish. At a horizontal break, move left into the left hand finish and continue up this.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

32 - Joe L's Jaunt
VD
Length: 12m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 20/04/08
Climb the R edge of the second L-facing slab.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

33 - The Scholar
*
S
Length: 12m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 20/04/2008
Start just to the R of Joe L's Jaunt and climb the narrow, L-facing corner.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

34 - Maamturks Man
*
VS 4c
Length: 12m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 11/05/2008
Start as for 'The Scholar'. Climb up and step R onto the platform. Move a little R and climb the steep vertical crack in the back wall.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

35 - Grease Lightening
VS 4c
Length: 12m
David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
The crack to the right of the top part of Maamturks Man, climbed from sea level. Low to mid tide.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

36 - Croithlí Dáithí
E2 5c
Length: 12m
David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
The crack to the right of grease lightening. Climb strenuously to a cramped ledge up on the left. Step right and gain the good platform above. Climb the wall to the right of the corner and exit via the small chimney. Low to mid tide.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


The R-hand side of Tráthnóna Wall is steep and undercut. An abseil approach is the only option, and hanging belays the order of the day.This section is bordered on the R by a green, grassy gully, (Green Gully) sloping down from N to S.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note

Poll Na Caoineadh Bordered on the L by Green Gully and on the R by Stream Gully. Climbs are 18 - 25m long.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
36a - Territorial Pissings
VS 4c
Length: 15m
H Hennessy, R Redmond 8/4/13
Abseil down the water runnel in the centre of the face, climb the wide chimney/crack and finish via some hard bridging moves through the large hole!
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

36b - Marauder
E1 5b
Length: 15m
H Hennessy, R Redmond 8/4/13
Start as for "Territorial Pissings" but move right up to the roof, make some awkward jamming moves past this and continue straight up the crack.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

37 - Contortion Gully
VS 4c
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 03/10/10
Climb the wide groove running up the left wall of the wide chimney to the left of "An Scaith."
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

38 - Airborne Midget's Chimney
HS 4b
Length: 14m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson, D. O'Connor 03/05/10
Climb the right wall of the wide chimney to the left of "An Scaith."
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

39 - An Sciath
S
Length: 18m
G. Moss & L. Convery 11/05/08
Start where the gully becomes a narrow channel, at the L side of the face, below the obvious shield-like plaque at about 3 metres. Step down into the channel and climb up to stand on the shield. Keeping near the L edge, move straight up to pull over a block on good, though not obvious, holds and cruise on up.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

40 - Cith is Dealain
D
Length: 18m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 10/05/08
Start 2m R of 'An Sciath', below a short vertical fault line. Climb this, then traverse diagonally R for about 10 m., passing below an obvious thin flake en route, finish by moving up L through a break when the traverse line fades.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

41 - An Giolla Deacair
VS 4b
Length: 18m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 19/04/2008
Start a little over 1m. R. of 'Cith is Dealain'. Climb straight up on good holds to the foot of a short, steep section. Pull over this and move up to the top of a block below a short, smooth slab, just L of a huge boulder. Up the slab (crux) to the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

42 - An Buachaill Caol Dubh
S -
Length: 18m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 10/05/2008
Start at the bottom of the gully, nearly 3m. R of 'An Giolla Deacair' and just L of a large block. Climb up into a slanting corner, make a wide step R to follow the crack slanting R, then climb to the top of the prominent thin flake above. Up pleasantly from here. (Mild Severe)
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

43 - Flowing Tide.
S 4a
Length: 15m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 17/04/10
Starting to the right of the large boulder as for "An Buachaill Caol Dubh," jug haul up to a right facing corner, layback up and over to easier ground & continue to top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


Immediately R of "Flowing Tide" the crag is undercut, and only accessible by boulder hop from the base of Green Gully at low tide. This section is seperated from the R-hand section by a chimney with a large chockstone at the very top (Chockstone Chimney).
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
44 - Haensel
* * *
E1 5c
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 30/03/11
Start on the non tidal nose as for "Flowing Tide" and make a rightward rising traverse to stand on the superb wee scoop up and right. Make a hard technical traverse right to join "Frugivorous Fault" at mid height, make a rising traverse leftward following the inverted scallops and up through the roof to a perfect finishing spike in the summit. An outstanding route on perfect technical rock.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

45 - Frugivorous Fault
* *
HVS 5a
Length: 12m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson, D O'Connor. 03/05/10
In the centre of the undercut wall between "Flowing Tide" & "Chockstone Chimney" climb the right trending Quartz crack fault line. Steep & unforgiving with layback jugs in ALL the right places! :-)
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

45a - Commitment Issues
E1 5b
Length: 12m
H Hennessy, R Redmond 10/4/13
Climbs the prominent roof left of weeping wall groove, big holds lead up to the roof and a hands off rest, pull through the roof and continue to the top
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

45b - Weeping Wall Groove
*
VS 5a
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 31/07/11
On the left wall of "Chockstone Chimney," climb the steep groove on perfect jugs and up the right facing corner to an airy top out.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

46 - Chockstone Chimney
VD -
Length: 12m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 24/09/2008
The L-hand side of this section is bounded by a chimney, capped by a large chockstone, and with a blunt arete to its R. Start from some boulders beneath the L-hand side of the arete.Climb the L-hand side of the arete, moving into the chimney and surmounting the chockstone to finish.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


Poll na Caoineadh. Right side. At low to mid-tide approach down Stream Gully ( this gully separates Poll na Caoineadh from Traderg Wall, and there are no prizes for guessing this is the gully with the small stream running down it!) After a tricky start, scramble back N, along good ledges. At mid-to-full tide this area can be accessed by abseiling down the centre of the wall at, or near, the line of Home is the Sailor. A rocky reef, running parallel to this section, protects the base of the wall during high seas.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
46a - G-String
VS 4c
Length: 12m
P Tinney & K McGee 1-7-2013
Start about 3 metres right of Chockstone chimney where the rock bulges out above a rock pool. Pull up on a selection of good flakes to a good stance and then up to the large ledge of Knickers. Go up the crack for about a metre to a smaller ledge on the right. From there move up right using a thin  vertical crack on the slab to gain the horizontal break below the overlap. Make a couple of interesting moves up  to gain the good flake  above the center of the overlap. Follow this to the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

47 - Knickers
* *
S
Length: 18m
Síle Daly and David Craig 01/07/09
Start 2m left of the square cut overhang of Traderg Tantrum at a bulging flake crack. Climb the crack and follow an easy traverse line leftwards over ledges to a prominent nose. Follow a crack above the nose to the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

48 - Skid marks
*
HVS 5a
Length: 18m
Síle Daly and David Craig 01/07/09
Start as for Knickers. At approximately half way across the traverse a flake crack heads up slightly rightwards to some undercut holds. Use these to gain the wall above just below the right end of a long overlap. Traverse easily leftwards below the overlap to re-join Knickers near the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

48a - Stigmata
*
E2 6a
No length recorded
K McGee, P Tinney. 07/04/13
Start as for Knickers at the large flake. Climb directly up to the two identical pockets. Continue up the wall with increasing difficulty to the base of the overhanging crack. Climb the overhanging crack, then move slightly right to climb the next bulge. Finish up the offwidth.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

49 - The Traderg Tantrum
* *
E1 5b
Length: 12m
David Craig and Síle Daly 01/07/09
Start 2m left of The Parting Glass at a corner leading up to the square cut overhang. Climb the corner, crux, then traverse below overhang passing it on the right. Move up over some interesting flakes and make a long reach up via obvious undercut to more good flake holds. Follow the flakes back slightly leftwards to an exit at a wide crack. 
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


At about the central point of this section there is a cluster of R-ward pointing flakes in the upper half of the face. The next three climbs are located here.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
50 - The Parting Glass
S
Length: 10m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 24/09/2008
Start about 2m R of a square-cut overhang at 3m, below some ledges, and below the L-most of the flakes above. Climb directly to a wide ledge and contiue up the corner on the L pulling over the blocks.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

51 - Stira
S
Length: 10m
L Convery, G Moss 24/9/08
Start to the right of "The Parting Glass" up onto a ledge and move left to a higher, wider ledge, then climb the corner to the right of "The Parting Glass"
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

52 - Distraction
HS 4b
Length: 10m
Michael Hassan, PJ Monaghan 23/05/09
The obvious corner right of The Last Hurrah. Reach up to good hold at the blank looking start. Climb up using corner and breaks on the face. Step up and left to a ledge and mantle straight up from there to top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

53 - Drunken Muppet
HVS 5a
No length recorded
K McGee, P Tinney. 01/07/12
Start a few metres to the right of Distraction on the left edge of a large block/flake. Climb slighty leftwards to a small undercut flake and move straight up past the next two horizontal breaks to meet the right edge of a crack which curves down to Distraction. Move right along the ledge and climb the little wall above, move slightly left at the top of this to gain a short crack to finish.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

54 - Ballad of the Wood Thieves
HVS 5a
Length: 10m
Michael Hassan, PJ Monaghan 23/05/09
This takes the next obvious crack/corner line a few metres to the right of Distraction past the blank wall (left of Ga greine). Move up from platform to a pointy step. Using the crack reach up to good hold above and continue up laybacking on the flakes. Good hold on left at top, then rock over to the right onto blank slab to finish.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

54 - Carraig ar Crith
VS 4c
Length: 10m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 25/09/2008
Start near the R-hand end of this section, below two prominent jammed flakes. Move up to stand on the higher of the two flakes (both of which rock gently, but are securely jammed at the base). Climb the corner, using holds out on the R wall where necessary.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

55 - Mary's Route
VD -
Length: 10m
Martin & Mary McGuigan, April 01
At the bottom of the descent gully, turn right and climb second obvious corner, traversing left.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

55a - The Great Escape
S 4a
Length: 10m
A Feaney, A Conn 23/5/09
Climb the blocky corner at the right end of the ledge. Hader than it looks
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

56 - Mujahadeen
HVS 5a
Length: 13m
D. Millar & P. Cooper March 2003
Follows an obvious rightward trending flakey crack and wall above on the last main wall to the left of the descent gully. Follow the crack and the step left onto face, continue to the top using horizontal breaks.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


Traderg Wall. This is the south facing wall at the northern end of Traderg Bay (GR 732212), below and to the L of the thatched cottage development. Viewed from the boulder beach below the cottages, the most obvious features are a narrow chimney (Chimney Sweep HS 4b) with a bulbous wedge-shaped cliff on its L .Bounded on the L by Stream Gully and on the R by a boulder beach accessed from the thatched cottages. The L-hand side, from Stream Gully as far R as the L edge of the bulbous, wedge-shaped cliff, can be accessed at most tides from the gully. The R-hand side, from the boulder beach to the wedge-shaped cliff can be approached from the beach at low to mid tide.
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
57 - Pikie Groove
S -
Length: 10m
I. Miller, D. Moore 07/08/10
Climb the slim groove immediately to the left of the "Cruitical Moves" Arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

58 - Cruitical Moves
HS 4b
Length: 10m
Gerry Moss & Liam Convery 25/09/2008
Start about 7 m L of the L-hand side of the wedge-shaped cliff, at the foot of the arete between Ward Off the Ozzies on the R and the "Pikie Groove" on the on the Left. Climb the arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

59 - Absolute Cruitical Moves
VS 4b
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 19/09/10
Climb the thin right trending cracks to the right of the "Cruitical Moves" Arete.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

60 - Pommies Groove
S 4b
Length: 10m
I. Miller 09/08/10
Climb the groove with a mini roof at half height, a metre or so to the left of "Ward of the Ozzies," groove.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

61 - Faolchú
HS 4b
Length: 10m
W. Schuessler, L. Kupper 19/09/10
Climb the thin groove between "Pommies Groove" and "Ward of the Ozzies."
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

62 - Ward Off the Ozzies
HS 4b
Length: 10m
C.& M. McGuigan, April 01
Three metres left of "4 April Fools", climb next narrow corner and crack to the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

63 - Look Well to Every Step
S -
Length: 12m
Liam Convery & Gerry Moss. 10/04/08
Start 1m L of 4 'April Fools'. Climb direct to overhang, which is taken on the R-hand side.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

64 - 4 April Fools
S 4a
Length: 10m
M. & A, McGuigan, April 01
Next corner (3m left of "Seven Steps"), climb corner and crack, with small cove half way up.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

65 - Decker's Direct
S 4a
Length: 12m
I. Miller, D. Moore 07/08/10
Climb the steep corner crack immediately to the right of "4 April Fool's" corner, and finish as for "7 step's to nowhere." Steep with an excellent crux.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

66 - Seven Steps to Nowhere
S 4a
Length: 20m
F.McCloskey & Party
This, and the following routes, are accessed via the above mentioned access gully. The first corner beyond the "Bulge" climb 2 metres to overhang, and move up over 6 steps to the top.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

67 - The Cruit Itch
* *
E2 5c
Length: 12m
Síle Daly and David Craig 23/06/09
On Tradarg wall right hand side. Start at an obvious bulging crack to the left of Strangeboat. Climb the crack to an overlap. Mantle a jug above and make a long reach up right to a hidden finger jug. Move up to a horizontal break and finish via a flake crack on the right. A real gem of a route not to be missed.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route


Traderg Wall Right hand side
Edit note
Upload a new photo for this note
68 - Strangeboat
* *
VS 4c
Length: 13m
P. Cooper & D. Millar March 2003
Located at the L-hand end of this section below the bulbous, wedge-shaped cliff, Starting on sea-ledge 3m left of Lust for Oil. Move up and right to the obvious flakey crack, follow this to where the crack doglegs left. Step delicately onto slab above and continue upwards and onwards with the aid of the horizontal breaks. A nice flowing line.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

69 - Lust for oil
* *
VS 4c
Length: 14m
D. Millar & P. Cooper March 2003
Follows the obvious flakey crackline on the bulbous face left of chimney sweep. Start on a sea ledge, step up and left onto a good ledge. Follow the crackline to the top using brilliant jams along the way.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

70 - Chimney Sweep
* *
HS 4b
Length: 20m
M. & C. McGuigan. April 01

This climb follows the narrow chimney about 6M R of the wedge-shaped cliff, the first chimney encounterd when approaching from the boulder beach behind cottage..

Gain the chimney, which is climbed, mostly internally, to the top.


View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

71 - Max
E2 5b
Length: 12m
K McGee, I Miller. 21/08/14
Climb the steep corner groove to the right of Chimney Sweep to the flake. Move left at the top and make a couple of hard moves to gain easier ground.
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route

72 - Kahlua's Scratch
E5 6b
Length: 15m
P. Swail, E. Harvey 18/04/15
Take a hanging belay 4m right of Chimney Sweep and below the steep juggy wall. The route starts by traversing in from the right until above the belayer at 3m height. From here attack the wall direct via positive, steep and well protected climbing. The last few meters entertain the crux where a few puzzling moves up and slightly right gain the top slab
View Route
Edit Route
Upload a new photo for this route