Gethsemane * * |
Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: E2 5c
Length: 84m
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| First ascent: L.Griffin, M.Curran(One Aid point) 1973, Freed, A Millar, P Dunlop 1985 |
| Route Description: |
E2,5c,4c,4c,4c.This fine route takes an almost direct line up the Delta Face. Immediately below the apex of the triangular face is an overhanging wall with a white recess on its right. The climb starts in the recess. - 33m. Climb the slanting groove in the recess from right to left until stopped by overhangs. Make a difficult pull out left over the overhangs to a resting place below a very steep wall. Climb the crack in the wall, using a sling to exit on to the Delta Face. Climb up easily for 5m to belay - top of Pitch 3 of Larceny.
- 24m. Straight up short layback pitch as for Larceny, but instead of traversing left go straight up to the smooth walls and climb delicately right into a scoop with small spike runner. Move up to reach heather and easy rock which is followed to block belay to top of Pitch 4 of Larceny.
- 21 m. Step right and climb easily to the foot of an obvious corner. Bridge over the first bulge and continue to the second where a move right is made on to the arete in a fine position. Make a difficult move up into a scoop and delicately back left to
continue more easily up the arete to a good ledge and belay below the final short corner.
- 6m. Climb this deceptive corner to the top.
Pitches 2,3 & 4 have been described as hard for this grade, and poorly protected.
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Al on Gethsemane - March 2002.
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| Comments |
Dave Millar - 01/07/2018
Good route, worth ** for the climbing and situation. |
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