Route Number: 1198

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Roaring Forties * *

Location: Sail Rock
Grade: VS  4c
Length: 87m
First ascent: D Scott, R Gillies (4/67)
Route Description:

VS.4c,4b,4c

Start: This route takes the left edge of Sail Rock. The original line started up a crack to the right of the arete to reach the basalt dyke about 6m from the edge.

  1. 28m From the lowest point of the basin follow the edge to a belay level with the basalt dyke.
  2. 18m Climb open grooves on the left of the edge to another platform.
  3. 35m Climb for 10m to a stance and continue up a crack to the top or break out right and finish on solid weathered rock to the top of the wall.


Photo of Route
Roaring Forties- Sail Rock - Mmm. 100M rope doesn't go far here!(Says Bill)
Comments

Kevin Kilroy - 16/07/2012
Amazing fun - worthy of two stars I think as the first pitch is not totally amazing. The top pitch is however! Good at VS.

K McGee - 21/09/2011
I reckon this is definitely a 3 star climb. The first pitch isn't the best but the second(top) pitch is excellent offering steep, well protected climbing in a superb setting. Check out J Colton's fantastic photo of the route on UKC.

John Duignan - 22/02/2011
Did this in June 2010 with Hugh Reynolds ; Everything about the climb felt like a great day out - challengning approach , great belays , views across to Sligo and a wind carved rock on the final pitch that looked like Ogham writing ; I rate this a *** trip - as much fun as Dream of White Horses; It definitely is on my list of best VS climbing - a hidden treasure >

Iain Miller - 14/04/2008
Excellent wee adventure, defo worthy of 2 *'s!

Dave Millar - 28/08/2007
Did this there on the weekend with George Carleton. George ran the first two pitches together and had about 10m,s left on his 60 metre ropes. Top pitch is great, bit vegetated in corner to start but great climbing and exposure once you step right onto the main face. Enjoy.

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