Colmcille Climbers

E5.5c, 6a

This climbs the superb slab midway between Roaring Forties and Main Mast. Start at the base of a long, straight crack directly above the apex of the blowhole.

1. 45m 5c. Climb the first half of the crack and then follow another crack rightwards to the black band. Above the band follow sloping holds to a good nut placement and make a delicate move left to a thin crack which is followed to a grey area of rock. Step down rightwards to a small thread and make a difficult move up to gain a flake on the right. Layback boldly up the flake to an awkward mantel shelf at its top. Step right and make a thin move up on grey rock to gain good holds on the left which lead to a record flake. Belay at a thin crack at the top of this flake (two No. 1 friends).
2. 25m 6a. Climb the crack with difficulty (No.2 friend) to where it closes. Step precariously left to single finger slots and sloping footholds at a blind crack. Tiptoe up this (poor R.P's) to slight relief at a minute overlap of grey rock, on the left. Step right into the wider continuation of the crack which is easier but still serious for another 5m. Near the top of the crack branch out rightwards, following a superb zig-zag crack which ends near the top. Reach up for enormous jugs which lead to the top, just left of the finish of Main Mast.