Route Number: 1200

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Castaway * *

Location: Sail Rock
Grade: E6  6a
Length: 80m
First ascent: D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (8/91)
Route Description:

E6.4c, 5a, 6a

This takes the slab and thin crack right of Main Mast. The main pitch offers sustained climbing through areas of soft rock with `hopefully adequate protection'.

  1. 15m As for Main Mast up to the dyke.
  2. 25m From the dyke follow the broken fault up rightwards to gain huge flakes just left of the corner bounding the right end of the slab. A long reach about 15m out gains the top of a prominent flake (crux). Protection is just below in the corner to the right. A rising traverse leftwards deposits one at a two-peg belay just below a thin crack.
  3. 40m The Big Pitch. Simple route-finding draws one up the thin crack (friend 1.5 many small wires) to a shallow slot/runnel 10m from the top. A few thin moves past an overlap rewards you with good wire placements, and go on up left to better holds. Continue direct for 4m until one can move rightwards to a crack, where you place small friends and finish up the crack. A superb effort.


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