Route Number: 147

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European Bob

Location: Sail Rock
Grade: E4  5c
Length: 80m
First ascent: August 2003Pat Nolan, Joe Walls,
Route Description:

This route follows a more or less direct line from just above the basalt dyke on Main Mast to the peg belay on Castaway. This is in effect a new direct first pitch to Castaway and finishes by the 2nd (crux) pitch of that route. From about 4m above the black band on Main Mast follow a thin crack rightwards through a small notched overlap. Continue on face holds when the crack runs out (many micro-wires). Thin moves gain a diagonal flake which is followed leftwards to large holds and the left side of an arching overlap (crucial F2 in crystal pocket down on L). With feet on large holds make thin moves up the left side of the overlap to reach sloping ramps leading to the peg belay on Castaway.

Note: pegs cannot be reached from belay ledge. They are in good condition but in shallow placements. Pegs were extended on approach abseil to be easily clippable and the belay was backed up with the abseil rope.

Finish via the top pitch of Castaway


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