Westway To The World |
Location: Sail Rock Grade: E5 6a Length: 70m |
First ascent: Pat Nolan, Andy Long (alt.) May 2004 |
Route Description: |
This route connects a series of subtle features between Main Mast and Friggin In The Riggin and is based on a peg of unknown origin at about 2/3 height which was used as a belay (in conjunction with abseil rope). (i)6b Start just right of the blow hole and climb easily rightwards to a break in the basalt dyke with a crack above which runs out. Climb the slabby wall above to reach a vague but conspicuous diagonal red/orange rounded overlap/wave. Use handholds in the overlap/bulge and traverse diagonally leftwards with feet on slab below to reach big crystal pockets (small/medium cams). Get feet in pockets and move rightwards to thin crack and wire placement (not obvious). Climb back left on face holds to reach bottom of short flake. Up this to hands-off ledge on left. Arrange cluster of microwires above ledge and make difficult face moves (crux) up wall to reach a flake/crack which leads to a small niche where the peg is. Belay -peg and abseil rope. (ii) 5b The first half of this pitch is unprotected. Climb the thin flake above the belay to where it ends. Traverse left across the wall to reach a hidden crack. Follow the crack, which gets easier with height, to the top. Finish just left of Main Mast. |
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Route Number: 148