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Pyrenees Summer Meet 2024

To The Enchanted Mountains.

A personal account from Alan Tees.

Photo: Gully on Gran Encantat

Thursday 22nd August  We drove to Waterford to stay with pals  -mountaineer Jack Bergin and his partner Carol. It was painless, except for getting through Waterford City. Jack was not in great form over the death of his friend, climbing pioneer Stephen Gallwey.

Friday 23rd August We had a day to kill, while Jack and Carol attended the funeral so we visited Hook Lighthouse, Tintern Abbey and had a nice lunch at Kilmore Quay, but we were far too early for the boat at Rosslare and did not get on till after midnight. We met up with PJ, Anthony, Valli and Nigel.

Saturday/Sunday 24th/25th August . Now at sea, we  had a meal in the restaurant on Sunday. Though first there at Rosslare, we were the last off at Bilbao. We caught up with the others at Arenas for coffee and a swim. Then we drove to Jaca to overnight in a Campervan carpark.

Monday 26th August. On to Torla, a nice site. The others were active, but we spend most of the afternoon in a bar waiting for the tourist office and shops to open.

Tuesday 27th August. There was a long queue to get the bus into Ordesa/Pradera. A great (and full on) day : along a ledge, very high up, and down by a Via Ferrata (sans kit). Valli and Margaret Tees did a similar traverse, but lower down. Beers followed then a bus down.

Wednesday 28th August. The others left. We had a lazy day.

Thursday 29th August. We left at 7.00am for Espot in the Pyrenees. Ainsa, Campo, Leidha. We arrived Espot early afternoon. Margaret Quinn, Derek and Martin were already there.

Friday 30th August . The original plan to do the Amitges changed as Margaret Q was not well from a nasty reaction to antibiotics. Instead myself and Margaret T did Pic De Ratera 2862m. It was a long enough day, ended with a meal out. The others were well pleased at getting the Gran Encantat 2749m.

Saturday 31st August. A rest day. We shopped in Sort, down the valley. ‘A’ team did Agul D’ Amitges. Not impressed, as they geared up to the nines for a hill walk! ** Note for Ball Bearing Award.

Sunday 1 st September. Walked a GR 11 to Estais with Derek and 2 Margarets . We met Valli on the bike. We had tasty lunch in Espot.

Monday 2nd September. We took the Jeep to San Maurici lake, and Margaret Q and I did the Gran Encantat. It was 41 years since the last time. We met climber Felix from Alicante and shared the descent. I was well pleased, and so was MQ.  Margaret T and Derek walked up the Monastero Valley and we met back at the Rifugio Malafre for beers,  coffee and cake.

Tuesday 3rd September. A wet morning. It cleared up in the afternoon but the forecast was not good. Time to leave?

Wednesday 4th September We left. Made it back to sunny Culdaff 10th September via rainy stop-offs through France.

 

IMC visit to Malin Head September 2024

The forecast was poor to dire. Even worse, there was a 2 day  Rave at the Seaview, so no climbing and no sleep either.

Margaret Quinn and I joined them on Saturday, at Port a Doris.  It rained on the way down but miraculously stayed dry pretty much all day, though it was windy.  We did a route on Toby Jug Wall, then Crack a Toa.  The exit still isn’t nice on this jem of a route, and consensus is that a bolted lower- off, (maybe 2 to cover the other routes) would be the answer.  Also, beware old abseil stakes, one of which fell to bits at the top of Toby Jug Wall.  There are Titanium bolts there now.  A welcome pint in Rosatos Moville followed.

On Sunday the forecast was better. At Malin Head David Walsh(Snr) had already put up ab ropes, so climbers were already active when I arrived at 10.30.  I was teamed up with Elaine by Phillip, and did Carbolic Crack, then Cutting Edge, but the seas were so big we didn’t ab down to the bottom.  The 100m ab rope had got washed into the sea and jammed, so it has been abandoned by the IMC, and we can have it.  It needs an ab to the bottom cut the rope and retrieve the rest.  Good condition, so it is!

We went to Malin Laundry East, where I volunteered Elaine to lead Niamh’s Route.  It was lethally slippy, and fair play to her for getting up it.  Niamh’s vengeance? All the routes here were wet and greasy from the sea spray.  We had coffee at the van and the parting of the ways.  All seemed happy with the weekend.

On Friday, Jack and I climbed Ballyharry Buoy.  Needed a bit of a clean for a photoshoot

Colmcillers at Fairhead Meet May 2024

Report from Ronan Duddy, Club Chairperson.

Photo taken by Hugh McC. Ronan (blue) on Lazarus, Emi (grey) on Pangur Bán.

Fiona and I attended the Fairhead meet for the first time this year, which ran from the 31st of May to the 2nd of June. Though we only camped for the Saturday night, we got a good variety of climbing done and met new people. It was a paid-ticketed event, hosted by the McBride family and organised by the Dal Riada climbing club. For us there were a lot of “not-
done-this-before” moments during the weekend.

Arriving on Saturday morning, we pitched our tent in a field belonging to the McBride’s family farm. There was the hustle and bustle of colourfully clothed people gingling about with trad gear on their hips and ropes on their shoulders; with tents, campervans and cars packed around the open field. The weather was sublime. Having got settled, we carpooled with our friends Emi and James over to Murlough Bay car park to attend the Fairhead boulder field tour organised by Rob Hunter and Veronica Lee. The walk into the boulder field was quite idyllic. Following the track down towards the sea and in front of the towering cliffs above, the trail eventually disappears into a sea of boulders. It was exceedingly hot and thronged with a horde of climbers exploring the boulders, like ants among bread crumbs. The amount of climbers was staggering.


Fiona and I haven’t bouldered outdoors before as we didn’t own any boulder mats. However, the level of excitement and enthusiasm from our fellow boulder climbers was infectious. Folks were very welcoming to let others use their mats to try a climb. Once one was attempting a climb, a cluster of human hands lurched outwards to spot one’s potential fall.  At times it felt as if there were over a dozen hands reached out from varying angles and places. The owners of the hands would shout encouraging statements to compel your journey upward. Aside from the vast array of hands, there were a vast quantity of boulder mats. These are required to protect potential falls at Fairhead given the hard jaggedy erratic-ness of the boulder field. There are plenty of places to lose an ankle as well. I cannot recall the names or grades of the boulders we climbed, as there was simply too much fun being had.

In the evening we attended a talk by Catherine Destivelle in one of the barns at the farm. Her talk was absorbing. She gave a general overview of her journey as a mountaineer, as well as her many achievements. She showed photos and footage of her adventures throughout her career, including her famous soloing feats which left the audience in awe. I believe the audience gave her a standing ovation. Fiona approached Catherine to sign her copy of her book, Rock Queen, and was well chuffed for the night. It was Niall Grimes, whom we had unfortunately missed on the Friday night, that encouraged Fiona to speak with Catherine. We complemented Niall on his Jam Crack Podcast and stated how often we listen to it on our way to new climbing adventures as it keeps us entertained!

On Sunday when queuing for a perky cappuccino from the McBrides wee coffee truck, I couldn’t help overhearing a younger group of climbers with southern accents talking about what they were going to climb. They were going to climb something at the Prow, maybe The Fence (VS 4c). This buzz was reflective of the mood throughout the weekend. There was so much exciting and lively banter floating about.

After my eavesdropping, I saw George C and Gerard O’S in McBride’s car park. It’s always nice to see familiar faces at a crag. They were heading to Farrangandoo, where we’ve never been before. This part of Fairhead is just west of the Prow and similarly requires an abseil. Due to the number of climbers at the meet, queuing for a climb was to be expected. We parted our ways as there was a fever to get climbing. Though Fiona, Emi, James and I left the camp site and headed for Farrangandoo sometime later because the fever hadn’t quite hit us yet.  As we walked over we could see perhaps half a dozen climbers hovering above an abseil. Seeing George belaying Gerard confirmed that we were at Farrangandoo. They had just finished climbing Lazarus (VS 4c) before heading off to the Prow to find a route less busy. George offered some valued info on the area with potential climbs for us which is always appreciated.

Our plan was for Emi to lead with James, and for myself to lead with Fiona. I recall myself  feeling queasy when thinking about what route we should tackle. Between the four of us we had a finite amount of gear, and because Fairhead is just so vertical, unforgiving and long, I didn’t want to run out of protection (who does?). George said “don’t psych yourself out” before he and Gerard headed to the Prow. Gerard also mentioned one way to get to Lazarus would be to abseil into the top of a gully and tie onto the abseil to belay from, given that it is a bit awkward to get to. Emi and I split the gear between us and headed down the abseil.

Reaching the base of the crag, Emi and James waited on their turn to climb Pangur Bán (HVS 5a). Fiona and I finally caught ‘go fever’ and decided to scramble up the incredibly steep grassy gully to gain the start of Lazarus, as it looked straightforward enough. However, as I was setting off, I could hear the voice of another climber speaking with Fiona politely saying something along the lines of “I don’t doubt his climbing ability but that’s a dodgy gully, be careful…” After climbing hesitantly three or four moves up this gully, looking around for any solid bits of rock to cling on to (and of course reflecting on the guy’s words), it dawned on me that I should rope up. The thought of soloing up steep, grassy and unstable rock for about 10 metres still gives me the shivers.

On belay, I climbed up the gully to discover Hugh McC beginning to second Velocette (VS4b). I wished him a ‘bon voyage’ while building a belay for Fiona. She climbed the gully and put me on belay, where we both agreed the gully was disgusting in concept and really shouldn’t be climbed. Abseiling down to the top of the gully would be a much better way to start the climb as advised. This coloured my ascent of Lazarus where I was convinced that I bit off more than I could chew. The ‘gully of doom’ experience, combined with an anxiety of llacking gear to climb the actual route, affected my mindset. I spaced out protection where I could and bumped up cams as I went. When at rests, I even went so far as to take out the previous bit of protection, bump it up above my current piece and reclaim the piece that was my most recent. “Just in case I need this later”, I thought… In reality I didn’t need it later and the climb was soon complete.

I belayed Fiona off a fence post (classy). This was also her first time using crack gloves. She loved them. We both agree that the gloves make the cracks a little more bearable, or accessible. I think this is because crack climbing is quite an un-intuitive style to learn. Gloves help. Fiona reached the crux of the climb, let out some Xena warrior princess battle cries and topped out. She collected five pieces of gear on her seconding which I couldn’t believe. A gregarious Italian climber named Mario congratulated me on this. Emi and James had also completed Pangur Bán which sounded like a good route. It’s meant to contain a good variety of climbing on it (face climbing, laybacks and cracks). We didn’t stay long after this and headed back home to reconvene with our civilian lives.

Overall the meet was great fun and a good social experience. It was nice to see so many climbers with such an enthusiastic and contagious desire to climb.

Climbfest 2024 at Malin Head

This year’s ClimbFest, was held from Friday 3rd May until Monday 6th May hosted at the Seaview Tavern and the main focus of climbing was at Malin Head. The venue was shared with a Camper Van Club and made the Seaview Tavern quite animated. The weather was good overall, and the tides states, swell and wind speeds were perfect for coastal crags in a spectacular setting.

Rather than providing participants with another T-shirt, the club published a guide to rock climbing on the Inishowen Peninsula. This guide book, called Inishowen 100 Best Rock Climbs, contains the top 100 climbs on the Inishowen Peninsula as selected by the Colmcille Climbers at the start of 2024. The guide celebrates the Colmcille Climbers’ Club’s twenty-five years as a Mountaineering Ireland Club. It follows the coastline, heading west from Port a Doris to Dunaff Head. Completion of all Inishowen 100 Best Rock Climbs is a challenge to any seasoned climber. The routes range in grades from Diff to E4, but mostly concentrate on the Severe to Very Severe grades. While Chapters 9 and 10 are dedicated to Malin Head, in reality anywhere in the guide was easily accessible from this year’s campsite area.

Route finding can be challenging at Malin Head as most of the faces are not immediately apparent from the shore. The area immediately below and just to the west of Banba’s Crown, called Banba’s Buttresss, provides lots of easy routes ideal for training and an introduction to rock climbing. Further west is Magdalen Wall, Washboard Wall, Laundries East and West, Fitzgerald Wall, and the Cauldron which all provide great climbing, and were a hub of activity over the weekend. The furthest west area, Sea Area Malin, is now no longer accessible, due to the landowner closing access with a view to rewilding the area.

Climbers started to arrive on Thursday and this allowed time to establish camp, set up abseils and top ropes. This year saw the return of Kent Climber, Tim King, and a contingent from North Wales under the leadership of Geoff Thomas. The North Wales team included Jayne Dalzell (the very important chauffeur), Liz Hewitt and Mel Hooper, who had been told how good climbing was in Donegal by Geoff.

The county Antrim, Down, Kent contingent arrived late on Friday morning and established base camp at the Seaview Tavern. It was a still, calm day with sunshine. They headed to Malin Head and started on Magdalen Wall, located just beyond Hell’s Hole. The wave platform was dry and the rock was warm to the touch; the tide was low giving excellent climbing. In such perfect conditions climbing on the Inishowen Peninsula is hard to beat. The two routes for the afternoon were Housemaid Direct, HS 4b and Tide Mark, HVS 5a. Friday evening around the campfire, with Alan Tees on his bouzouki guitar and Frank Nugent on vocals, saw a shift in emphasis from Trad Climbing to Trad Music.

On Saturday morning seven brave ‘Cillers’ journeyed to the beach for a ‘before-breakfast’ swim, lasting only five minutes in the freezing Atlantic waters.

The climbing started at the area just below Banba’s Crown called Banba’s Buttresss. This was an introduction to rock climbing session supported by experienced Colmcille Climbers—it allowed a sampler session for beginners of all ages. It was a great session giving many their first taste of outdoors climbing. The temporary fixed ropes allowed safe descent and top ropes were in place on a variety of lower grade routes. Alan Tees described the atmosphere as “damp with dry rock”. Further west and later in the day, The Cauldron Area was especially busy, with many climbers wanting to bag the classic routes Cutting Edge *** V Diff and the Prockagh Ridge ** V Diff.

The first ascent of Prockagh Ridge was recorded in 1939 by a group from the Youth Hostel Association of Northern Ireland (YHANI).

The weather remained pleasant but slightly overcast with favourable tides and low wind. Neil Dickson and Catrina O’Neill, who recently joined the Cillers, were at Magdalen Wall and were planning to do Carbolic Crack, before moving on to Laundry East to do Shipping News. Sligo Climbing Club members James Kelly and Laura McMorrow completed Galway Girl * S 4a.

Charlotte Azzopard, originally from France, but living in County Clare, had planned to visit Donegal but learned about the ClimbFest and decided to come along. Having completed Shipping News ** VS 4c, she described it as “a really nice crack”.

On Sunday Patrick Hughes and Mark Reynolds completed Rebel Yell HS 4b, doing it in 2 pitches. Andrew McClelland, George Beaumont, Tim King and Hugh McCann completed Claymore Crack, VS 5a. Fitzgerald Wall was very busy with routes such as Fine Gael, * V Diff and Sunningale, V Diff seeing much of the traffic.

Monday saw a change in the weather so some climbers elected to visit the Isle of Doagh in search of better weather. The approach from the Famine Village car park leads the climbers past some excellent bouldering routes, described in David Flanagan’s Bouldering in Ireland. The route for Monday was Sand Storm, VS 4c. The hardest part of the climb is the layback at the start followed by some bold climbing to the top. Afterwards there was time for some bouldering before the 2024 ClimbFest wrapped up.

 David S. Walsh

Photos  : Andrew McClelland and George Beaumont on Claymore Crack. Photo Tim King

Cutting Edge “Look Happy for the Tourists” and “Morning Swim” Photos David S. Walsh

Kashmir 2023

Himalayan Club report on Kashmir.

My good friend Raja, (who has facilitated mountaineering trips to various parts of the Indian  and Nepali Himalaya for Irish Mountaineers every two years or so), contacted me after Covid had done its worst, and said, “where would you like to go next”?

“Is Kashmir safe”?  “Yes, Kashmir is stable”, but reading between the lines, I felt he would rather we chose somewhere else.

Having read a couple of Salman Rushdie’s books, I had been captivated with the idea of a visit for some years. The UK foreign office is still advising against travel to Kashmir, but there are many on-line testaments as to how beautiful the country is, and how safe and friendly the people are.  No insurgent activity since 2019 apparently, (and being from Northern Ireland, we have certainly had terrorist incidents since that, and would never consider that our country was unsafe for visitors).

We would go, unless things went pear-shaped in the meantime.

September 2024 arrived in due course, and so to Srinigar.

The plan was put together following a recce by Raja.  Avoiding the most popular Lakes Trek, we would do a 14 plus day trek through the Pir Panjal, climbing 3 peaks, Shin Mahinu, Tatakooti and Sunset Peak, all between 4000 and 5000m.   It would be a first, and he had a contact who could provide everything we would need.A map of trekking route

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It started badly for Margaret and I, when British Airways cancelled our flight from Belfast to London, (and got much worse), but we caught up with the other 8, (whose travel went as planned), on day three, as they headed into the mountains.  The mountains of Kashmir are unlike the other parts of the Himalaya that I have visited, being not as high, and heavily grazed, with spacious and extensive open pastures. Undoubtedly very beautiful with lots of alpine flowers, particularly Edelweiss. More like a mixture of Alpine meadow and the Mongolian steppes, with the less spectacular mountains not unlike those we have in Ireland or Scotland, except 3000m higher!

We started from Tosamaidan and two days later, chose to climb Shupnag 4400m rather than Shin Mahinu, as it looked more attractive.  Despite a thunderstorm, the entire party summitted, and we trekked to Navkan Sar Lakes, Chaanz, and then to Dumail.  Dumail is a stunningly beautiful spot and the base camp for Tatakuti.  Our Baggage was carried by horses, who were well suited to most of the terrain, except the boulder fields, which were pretty much everywhere, and difficult to avoid.

Camp at Chaanz Meadow

Our headline peak, Tatakuti, didn’t go quite to plan,  due largely to unfortunate decision making.

In trying to avoid the notoriously loose rock, we opted to reach a lower part of the ridge via the glacier. Rather than explore the possibility of a traverse to where we needed to be, a hasty decision was made to descend to another glacier behind.  A difficult descent on loose shale, and exhausting re-ascent meant that most were timed- out, but two did make it to the summit, (and were disappointed to find graffiti on the rocks).  The descent of a loose and icy gully was tricky, but everyone made it down safely.

Walking out from Tatakooti

A rest was scheduled for the next day, but four made it to the top of Hundru 4200m, a neighboring peak, with a fine solid scramble up a ridge to the summit.

Another day’s trek took us to the equally picturesque Chaskinar camp, from where two other summits were bagged, the Cairngormesque Bodanglan 4248m, and the more dramatic point 4400m

Chaskinar Valley camp, the tents can be seen by the bottom river bend

Two more days trekking took us to  Bargah Maidan,  ?? and the end of the trek at Yousmarg .

The trek route seemed to me to be an unnatural line, skirting around the mountains over numerous low ridges, then following a valley up into a picturesque camp, then back out again.  A more direct route through the mountains would probably work, but the boulder fields would rule out the use of horses for the baggage.  

A couple of camps, from where we could access summits, might possibly have been a better option in retrospect. 

Still, we got 5 summits between us, more than we expected, the weather was lovely throughout, and we had a few days to recover, enjoying the fleshpots, and amazing houseboats at Srinigar. 

The Music House in April

We had just walked in, and George was leading Caruso VS4b whilst I had ab’ed down beside him to get a good shot of his lay-backing style, when it started to rain. Even worse, he refused point blank to layback! “Why not?”. ” Don’t want to”. Fair enough I suppose, so we sheltered in the cave until the rain went over.

There was a route beside the cave that I had cleaned, sort of, but I didn’t want to lead, (for reasons that will become apparent), so cunningly I pointed the hand jam crack at the bottom, knowing that George could never walk past a good hand jam, (or any hand jam). All went well until he came across the big loose rock, the mucky jammed blocks above, and the final vegetated fissure, into which you have to slide sideways. He took it well. ” Do you want to second this Alan?” “No thanks, you are alright, Ronan’s there already”.

I had climbed nothing at the stage, having been too taken up with management duties, so led a nice juggy severe over two bulges, seconded by Ronan, which I called Argony Piper. George then led The Dutchman, seconded by Ronan which he thought excellent, and then I led another crackline I had cleaned, Self Isolation Blues, seconded George and Ronan. Back out over the rocks to the beach and home.

Colmcille in Connemara

 

Great weekend was had by all, despite the weather not living up to the high pressure expectations.

On Friday morning we met at the Yeats Tavern, that is Neil, Dennis, Damien, Andrew, Sarah, Columba, Martin B, Gertrude, Brian, Margaret and self, and we were joined for the day by Ivan, Valli, Anneka and 2 girls- Pam and another Margaret (when I say ‘girls’ you must understand that when you are my age,’ girls’ refers to any female not currently in a residential home)*.  Martin Neil, Damien and Dennis took off for Pinnacle Gully, Brian, Gertrude and Margaret T for Lough Gill, whilst the rest of us made our way up Kings Gully to the opening of the fissure called Annach re Mor.  (We were joined by Keith, who had just arrived by motorbike). All went to plan for a change, and we had just finished Annach re Mor as the Pinnacle party were starting.  Some of our party then finished with the upper fissure at Altnasomething, a narrow passage with a step ladder exit.

*I forgot to mention that Eugene made a brief appearance in the car park.

The Connemara National Park hostel was as comfortable as ever, although part of the common area was closed.  On Saturday morning the weekenders set off for Bencorrbeg, dropping Andrew off just outside Letterfrack.  A long rocky climb up into the mist took us, after a number of drop outs and false summits, eventually to Ben Corr, where we had hoped to meet up with Andrew.  Unfortunately, he had passed through over an hour before, having run over Knockbrack, Benbrack, Muckanaght, Benbaun, and Bencolladuff. We followed him to the top of Derryclare, then down the rocky and slippery east ridge.  When I got back to the hostel I heard that Damien, Andrew and Neil were already in the pub watching the Ulster game.  After 7 hours on the hill, sprinting was not an option, but I was able to manage a fast hobble to join them, and Damien, ever the gentleman, put a pint of stout in front of me. Such Bliss.  Ulster were out of sight when I went out to buy a newspaper.  When I came back there were only 3 points in it!

Great meal across the road, with first class trad music.  Everyone celebrating the first lockdown free night out, and we finished off with a song or two in the hostel, thanks mainly to Sarah and Gertrude.  Damien, who rumour has it can sing, had snuck aff to bed.

Sunday is normally a short leisurely walk followed by a longer less leisurely drive home, and this was no exception.  The walk wasn’t that leisurely up Diamond hill, but the path is excellent, and something similar would be appropriate for Errigal, I think.

The Edge, the island, and the giraffe.

And so it came to pass that Margaret Q, Eugene and myself gathered at Bamba’s coffee van at the crown, the plan being to reacquaint ourselves with two of Malin Head’s classics, then paddle out to Glashedy island in the afternoon.  Dawson’s Diedre came first, and we used the corner on the left at the top as an exit, which is much better and safer.  Then we did The Cutting Lizard, (or Lizard Edge), at a gallop as Eugene had a date, and had to be away for one o’clock.  More coffee at the van, then off to Carrickabraghy where Derek was trying to squeeze into his wet suit and awaiting our arrival.  The paddle across was almost flat calm, and we continued around the island, through some reefs, and suddenly we could hear singing, quite harmonious, and my first thought was, “What are the Henry Girls doing out here?”  It was the Glashedy Seal Voice Choir, and they broke off rehearsals to come and have a look at us.  After circumnavigating the island, we beached on some stones, and this is where we met the giraffe.  Those of you that have read Conan Doyle’s ‘The Lost World’ will be aware that species survive and indeed evolve in remote places cut off from the rest of the world (like Glashedy) and such was the case with the Glashedy Giraffe.  Well suited to the geography, it can stand on the beach and graze the vegetation from the top off the cliffs.  The GG has evolved a distinctive eroded head due to continuous and voracious attack by nesting sea birds who disapprove of its activities.  In the interests of anthropology, I decided to bring a specimen home, tied a bit of fisherman’s rope around its neck, and towed it behind the kayak.  Not entirely sure whether it was swimming or just walking, but when it emerged from the sea it caused a bit of a stir with the tourists.  Getting it to stay on the roof rack was more of a problem, as every time I got two legs on, the other two were off.  Good thing there were no low bridges on the way back to Culdaff.  It seems to be settling in well here, clearing the moss off the roof, and I have plans to use it for crag cleaning at Glenagivne and elsewhere

Glenagivney Keeps On Giving

Glenagivney Keeps On Giving

A few bods had shown interest in the Music House Crag just along the coast from Glenagivney. So on a fine sunny Saturday morning Alastair and I set off from Omagh. The sun continued to shine until just past the turning at Moville where it disappeared behind a bank of thick sea mist, never to reappear. The lanes leading to the parking space didn’t look familiar in the thick mist.
We waited around at the and soon the mist began to lift enough for us to check the sea was in the right place. Liam and Lucia soon appeared although they had hidden themselves behind the black bales for a while – alternative parking.
We enjoyed the high water boulder hop approach to the Music House Crag. Type 2 enjoyment, only truly savoured after the event. Although the sea mist didn’t leave all day the rock was perfectly dry, the friction excellent and the crag kept its reputation as midge free. Liam and Lucia found the quality of the rock and protection on Bootleg both excellent and confirmed the grade at HS. Maybe worth a star perhaps. A lesson in what can sometimes be found under the veg, see the before pic of Alan on the first ascent of ginger Lady.

Alastair got the second ascent of Caruso, surely the classic of the crag but sadly missing from the topo. Maybe if it was more visible then the crag would get more visitors. Everyone agreed this is a fantastic line and a three star route. The grade is a solid VS – although Lee took a star off for the grassy finish. The route is a bit changed since Liam found and despatched a loose flake from mid way and he was helpful in not fully letting rip until we had cleared away gear we had carefully laid out in the ‘drop zone’.
All in all another great day at a crag that really should see more visits. All the lines are cracker.

Happy Valli Meet – July 2021

With the promise of fine weather and good company it was an easy decision to journey to Sligo on Saturday morning for the Happy Valli Meet. 

 

I was the first to arrive at Valli’s; it was a fine morning so we headed to the Happy Valli Crag to make a start.  

By the time I was finishing the first climb ‘Colmcille Corner’ HS Andrew had arrived having just run over a clatter of mountains that morning and the evening before.  

We went on to climb ‘Ox Stair’, ‘Part Man Part Biscuit’ and ‘Muck on Top’, all fine routes with the common theme of little protection at the start but just enough higher up when you really needed it. Geoff and Alan arrived a short time later and climbed ‘Snow White and Colmcille Corner’.  

We broke for lunch then headed to Scalp na gCapail Crag a short drive away where we were joined by Hugh. The crag is right beside a road so access couldn’t be easier. The first route I climbed was a VS ‘Polish Paddy’ which had really nice climbing if a bit runout in places and hard for the grade. I climbed another VS ‘Juliana’, a good line with a few more options for protection. By all accounts the HS ‘Garda Síochána’ was s good line and well worth doing. It was obvious that a lot of work had gone into cleaning and developing the crag by local climbers, fair play to those involved. 

That evening we enjoyed a BBQ and a few libations around an open fire.  

 

The following morning Geoff and I headed back to the Happy Valli Crag for a few more routes whilst the others pursued other activities. We climbed ‘Raven’ which was loose, dirty and a wee bit scary. We then climbed ‘Snow White’ S, which I thought was tricky for the grade. We also tried a VS ‘Elizabethan’ which had potential for good climbing but was to dirty too climb safely so a detour was made to the right with a fair bit of pulling on heather to get to the top.  

 

In the afternoon all were back on the rock for one or two more routes before heading home. 

 

Thanks to Valli, Gerry and Anika for the hospitality and hosting a great weekend.