It  has been a year full of activity since the 2023 AGM November 4^th in Newcastle. Club Membership grew to 64,  with 44 Full and 20 Associate members.

3 Mountain Log editions had entertaining articles from Club Members – Ronan and Fiona  on the Alpine Summer Meet 2023, Anthony on Kashmir Expedition 2023, Alan’s quirky  Everest Diary 2074. Plus we have the new  Inishowen 100 Guide by David. Andrew  had an article on Kashmir 2023 accepted by the Himalayan Journal.

There were 12 official club meets plus the regular Wednesday Wallies coffee/climbing club.

The first meet was in November. 5 Cillers did a Muckish Miners Path clean-up. Alan’s write up made the news & a Highland radio interview ensued. A budding influencer?

In early December on the annual Wassail Abseil, a bouncy gang of 6  & 2 dogs overnighted in a Glenveigh ”bothy”. There was a fire, music, song, craic, beer, whiskey…. a somewhat less bouncy gang (dogs excepted) abseiled the next day, along with new clear headed arrivals Sean and Martin.

The Lynam Lecture in Dublin by Calvin Torrans had several of our members there.

A storm forced the January Connemara Winter trip into a windy Maghery Beach hike, led by locals Anne and Ronan O’Murchu.

In February-March  many got onto the snow in Scotland. On separate trips were Philip (for a month!), Abe, Keith and Neil. Rian was up Errigal’s Tower Ridge. There was a Ciller ski trip with Valli as guide to a wonderful ski area around Saas Felden, Austria,. Of note was Anthony’s remarkable graceful slow motion arret with knee twist.

In warmer climes, spectacular climbing spot, Caminito do Rey, Spain, had an  invasion of Irish – many Cillers  (Alan, Finbarr,  joined Jack Bergin & Robert Marchant plus Jackie, Helen, Maeve. Gerard O’S) . The few left here were out in the Bluestacks or Mournes.

The first Spring summer meet was an April recky of Port Na Sionnach, Inishowen . A terrific day’s climbing was had there a few weeks later in fine sunshine. Martin climbed in Srahalong Valley, Mayo while Abe opted for Cabeco D’Or, Costa Blanca. Thanks to Sean & Philip who did some Culdaff cleaning.

The Arran Island April trip had great weather for PJ, Anthony, Nigel, Rob and  Martin & included a scramble on A Chir Ridge Glen Rosa. A May. excursion to Scotland of Sean, Finbarr, Martin and Alan were in Lochaber, and climbed North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge on the Ben.

May Climbfest had a great turnout at Malin Head with camp at the Seaview Tavern. Now an international event with a  Welsh team of 5 led by Geoff, Tim from Kent plus climbers from Sligo, Claire, and Dublin. A  good number of new associate members were recruited. The super Inishowen 100 guide by club scribe David Walsh was launched (not to be confused with the other author David Walsh also in attendance).

Over the summer, there were a few mid-week Inishowen evening  climbs at Finbarr’s Wall & Dunowen & Port Na Sionnach, Leenan including various members such as Lisa, Jack, myself, Alan, David, Sean, and Finbarr. Tees adventure tours included a Cave of Lights on the Leenan outing. Port Na Sionnach was the scene of Sean’s agony hair-pulling atop of “Holy Mother of Jesus Get me Out of here”

Alan and returnee Marty were also out around Inishowen including the Music House. June 19th Sean and Alan climbed the almost forgotten classic Catriona, in Glenveigh, surviving man eating ferns and ticks, but good climbing in the upper half and a new variation done.

Fiona & Ronan were out at Dunseverick. Martin was very active in Mayo with climbing pal Ales Soucek at Kilary crag and Knock roadside crag & Srahlong Valley.

Further afield Rian climbed Gran Paradiso, Aosta Valley. Keith narrowly missed a devastating deluge in La Bernarde in Ecrin.

June 1^st Martin Boner hosted a meet in Connemara (postponed from January). A fabulous sunny weekend. Day 1 was a hike up Allebaun, a lough Glenawough dip, a  Beck scramble, & a slab climb & scramble on Intermediate of Joss Lynam. An overnight at Lenaune, then hiking & a new Martin route on Barrslievenaroy, Galway. Next day Alan & Martin did an amazing slab route in the Srahnalong valley. At the same time the Club campsite was getting a makeover:  Valli transformed the Rope Store with fabulous climbing murals, Anthony never looked happier in a digger creating a drain with support from PJ & Gerry.

The same weekend there was the Fair Head Meet. It has a great write up in the Club website from Ronan.

June 28 Tory Island trip gathered a dozen of all ages! It started with a gut wrenching  crossing. Bike-towed gear bags & a great camp spot on a NW cliff with handy beach & resident seal present all weekend. Jack & Lisa joined with their youngsters. Top entertainment came from boy band Pol, Paul & Alan. A new route put up by Alan, Tinneas Na Mara. Also sea dips and hikes around & the stunning spur of AnEochair Mhor.

Philip climbed at Bosigran Penzance getting back after a shoulder injury.

Aug 10th George Beaumont hosted a great Wicklow meet. There were more Man ( and Woman) eating ferns and ticks, and a lesson in humility at Luggala on Pine Tree Buttress (which also has a lot of gorse & a tricky holly tree). A few climbs were had on Day 2 at Glendalough. The same weekend Paddy, Frank & Martin headed to Achill Beg & climbed a sea stack & one other route on loose rock. Fiona & Ronan climbed  in N Wales. Hugh & Les were out in the Mournes.

Super fit pair Andrew and Sarah had also ran the arduous Art O’Neil Challenge  In the summer they ran the Laugavegur Ultra Marathon, from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk/Thorsmork (55km). Then they went to Skogar and walked the Fimmvörðuháls (Fimmvorduhals – Five Cairn Trail) back to Thorsmork (32km). Next they travelled up to the Western Fjords & explored Hornstrandir & sampled various hot springs

Late August was a Club trip of 9 to Espot & the San Maurici National Park in the Pyrenees some in 3 campers. Of note – a  via Ferrata at Baquera Baret was completed without gear! The highlight was climbing the wonderful Grand Encantat.

September16. An IMC group came to Malin Head & 5 Cillers joined them. The forecast was terrible. Worse, there was a 2 day rave at the Seaview (which Neil said was good). Climbing switched to dry Port a Doris then a move to Culdaff camping.

Over the Autumn Abe was out on the Sturrel. Philip was very active  & did Classical Revival, Lough Belshade. Sean & Philip were out on Jims Jaunt, Hen Mountain.  Sean went a slip sliding  on Big Slabber. It was also a sad faced Sean at the Poison Glen which was wet & trippy. Myself and Alan climbed Heads Together at Skelpoonagh Bay, Glencolmcille. Nigel, PJ & Ant climbed at  Altnadue Querry, noted as a wonderful accessible bolted gem. Hugh was climbing & scrambling Sierra de Gredos, Spain for 2 weeks (& he is making a report for the club on it).

October 12-13 was the Sligo MI meet with 10 Club members. We had a fine hike & abseil at Kings Gully with 4 climbing clubs represented and a morning climbing happily at Happy Valli Crag. Great to meet Sligo climbers Josef and new club member James on these outings.

Recently “two of Derrys finest Sperrinists” Sean &, fashion icon, Finbarr were in the Bavarian Alps & had great hiking up the Hollental and the Alpsitze. And Martin & Ales climbed at stunning Arco Italy.

Hopefully this coming year will also bring plenty of opportunities for climbs, hikes, kayaking, coffee and craic!

We had just walked in, and George was leading Caruso VS4b whilst I had ab’ed down beside him to get a good shot of his lay-backing style, when it started to rain. Even worse, he refused point blank to layback! “Why not?”. ” Don’t want to”. Fair enough I suppose, so we sheltered in the cave until the rain went over.

There was a route beside the cave that I had cleaned, sort of, but I didn’t want to lead, (for reasons that will become apparent), so cunningly I pointed the hand jam crack at the bottom, knowing that George could never walk past a good hand jam, (or any hand jam). All went well until he came across the big loose rock, the mucky jammed blocks above, and the final vegetated fissure, into which you have to slide sideways. He took it well. ” Do you want to second this Alan?” “No thanks, you are alright, Ronan’s there already”.

I had climbed nothing at the stage, having been too taken up with management duties, so led a nice juggy severe over two bulges, seconded by Ronan, which I called Argony Piper. George then led The Dutchman, seconded by Ronan which he thought excellent, and then I led another crackline I had cleaned, Self Isolation Blues, seconded George and Ronan. Back out over the rocks to the beach and home.

Great weekend was had by all, despite the weather not living up to the high pressure expectations.

On Friday morning we met at the Yeats Tavern, that is Neil, Dennis, Damien, Andrew, Sarah, Columba, Martin B, Gertrude, Brian, Margaret and self, and we were joined for the day by Ivan, Valli, Anneka and 2 girls- Pam and another Margaret (when I say ‘girls’ you must understand that when you are my age,’ girls’ refers to any female not currently in a residential home)*.  Martin Neil, Damien and Dennis took off for Pinnacle Gully, Brian, Gertrude and Margaret T for Lough Gill, whilst the rest of us made our way up Kings Gully to the opening of the fissure called Annach re Mor.  (We were joined by Keith, who had just arrived by motorbike). All went to plan for a change, and we had just finished Annach re Mor as the Pinnacle party were starting.  Some of our party then finished with the upper fissure at Altnasomething, a narrow passage with a step ladder exit.

*I forgot to mention that Eugene made a brief appearance in the car park.

The Connemara National Park hostel was as comfortable as ever, although part of the common area was closed.  On Saturday morning the weekenders set off for Bencorrbeg, dropping Andrew off just outside Letterfrack.  A long rocky climb up into the mist took us, after a number of drop outs and false summits, eventually to Ben Corr, where we had hoped to meet up with Andrew.  Unfortunately, he had passed through over an hour before, having run over Knockbrack, Benbrack, Muckanaght, Benbaun, and Bencolladuff. We followed him to the top of Derryclare, then down the rocky and slippery east ridge.  When I got back to the hostel I heard that Damien, Andrew and Neil were already in the pub watching the Ulster game.  After 7 hours on the hill, sprinting was not an option, but I was able to manage a fast hobble to join them, and Damien, ever the gentleman, put a pint of stout in front of me. Such Bliss.  Ulster were out of sight when I went out to buy a newspaper.  When I came back there were only 3 points in it!

Great meal across the road, with first class trad music.  Everyone celebrating the first lockdown free night out, and we finished off with a song or two in the hostel, thanks mainly to Sarah and Gertrude.  Damien, who rumour has it can sing, had snuck aff to bed.

Sunday is normally a short leisurely walk followed by a longer less leisurely drive home, and this was no exception.  The walk wasn’t that leisurely up Diamond hill, but the path is excellent, and something similar would be appropriate for Errigal, I think.

And so it came to pass that Margaret Q, Eugene and myself gathered at Bamba’s coffee van at the crown, the plan being to reacquaint ourselves with two of Malin Head’s classics, then paddle out to Glashedy island in the afternoon.  Dawson’s Diedre came first, and we used the corner on the left at the top as an exit, which is much better and safer.  Then we did The Cutting Lizard, (or Lizard Edge), at a gallop as Eugene had a date, and had to be away for one o’clock.  More coffee at the van, then off to Carrickabraghy where Derek was trying to squeeze into his wet suit and awaiting our arrival.  The paddle across was almost flat calm, and we continued around the island, through some reefs, and suddenly we could hear singing, quite harmonious, and my first thought was, “What are the Henry Girls doing out here?”  It was the Glashedy Seal Voice Choir, and they broke off rehearsals to come and have a look at us.  After circumnavigating the island, we beached on some stones, and this is where we met the giraffe.  Those of you that have read Conan Doyle’s ‘The Lost World’ will be aware that species survive and indeed evolve in remote places cut off from the rest of the world (like Glashedy) and such was the case with the Glashedy Giraffe.  Well suited to the geography, it can stand on the beach and graze the vegetation from the top off the cliffs.  The GG has evolved a distinctive eroded head due to continuous and voracious attack by nesting sea birds who disapprove of its activities.  In the interests of anthropology, I decided to bring a specimen home, tied a bit of fisherman’s rope around its neck, and towed it behind the kayak.  Not entirely sure whether it was swimming or just walking, but when it emerged from the sea it caused a bit of a stir with the tourists.  Getting it to stay on the roof rack was more of a problem, as every time I got two legs on, the other two were off.  Good thing there were no low bridges on the way back to Culdaff.  It seems to be settling in well here, clearing the moss off the roof, and I have plans to use it for crag cleaning at Glenagivne and elsewhere

Glenagivney Keeps On Giving

A few bods had shown interest in the Music House Crag just along the coast from Glenagivney. So on a fine sunny Saturday morning Alastair and I set off from Omagh. The sun continued to shine until just past the turning at Moville where it disappeared behind a bank of thick sea mist, never to reappear. The lanes leading to the parking space didn’t look familiar in the thick mist.
We waited around at the and soon the mist began to lift enough for us to check the sea was in the right place. Liam and Lucia soon appeared although they had hidden themselves behind the black bales for a while – alternative parking.
We enjoyed the high water boulder hop approach to the Music House Crag. Type 2 enjoyment, only truly savoured after the event. Although the sea mist didn’t leave all day the rock was perfectly dry, the friction excellent and the crag kept its reputation as midge free. Liam and Lucia found the quality of the rock and protection on Bootleg both excellent and confirmed the grade at HS. Maybe worth a star perhaps. A lesson in what can sometimes be found under the veg, see the before pic of Alan on the first ascent of ginger Lady.

Alastair got the second ascent of Caruso, surely the classic of the crag but sadly missing from the topo. Maybe if it was more visible then the crag would get more visitors. Everyone agreed this is a fantastic line and a three star route. The grade is a solid VS – although Lee took a star off for the grassy finish. The route is a bit changed since Liam found and despatched a loose flake from mid way and he was helpful in not fully letting rip until we had cleared away gear we had carefully laid out in the ‘drop zone’.
All in all another great day at a crag that really should see more visits. All the lines are cracker.