An entry in the CC logbook
We had the AGM on Saturday night, with a small but select crowd. Minutes to follow with a provisional meets list for the winter. Ivan travelled all the way from Sligo. George and Gerard had been climbing at Kinnego, and were a bit late, but well done to them too. A good meal was had, and various people went climbing to various places on Sunday.
Download Minutes and Secretary’s report below.
AGM Minutes 2015
Faith in mountaineering now fully restored, after many recent washouts!
We ( Finbarr, Aoife, Fergus, Marg and self) hired a car at Geneva, and drove to the alpine meet in Saas Grund joining club members Cliona, Gerard, Andrew and Sarah, with Sandra and Dave arriving shortly after. There was a fair crowd of MI members camping in the sunshine, with Niall and family renting in the village. Some idiot came up with a plan to walk into the Amageller hut the next day, traverse the Dri Hornli Ridge, stay overnight, and do the traverse of the Weissmeis 4000m+ the next day. A bigger idiot ( me) thought it was a good idea. Reality kicked in when it took everything I had to make the hut, and the rest of the day to recover. Andrew and Fergus did the Weissmeis traverse, while Finbarr and self, with Gerard and Elaine and Sandra And Dave had a simply superb day on the Dri Hornli ( a cross between the Cuillin Ridge and Howling Ridge, but far better). The next few days saw the Allalinhorn, the Nadelhorn and the Jagihorn climbed, as we prepared for the Spaghetti extravaganza.
Friday saw Margaret and Aoife take to the TMR ( Tour de Monte Rosa), to trek to Gressoney from Saas Grund, while Sandra, Dave, Fergus, Finbarr, and self drove around via the St Bernard tunnel. Lifts took us to 3600m and a short trek to the Gnifetti Rifugi, which was jammed with people, it being the weekend. The atmosphere was jubilant and the food was fantastic!! In the morning we followed hoardes up the glacier, and Vincent Pyramid 4215m, Balmenhorn 4157m, Schwarzhorn 4322m, Ludwigshohe 4341m, and Parrotspitze 4432, fell to our weary tred, before we had to make the exhausting ascent to the highest hut in Europe, the Margarhita, at 4554m, atop the Signalkuppe. In fact the fourth highest summit in Europe is the toilet on the top (our) floor as there is a step up onto the throne. Thus, the saying ” I am going for the summit, and may be some time”. This exhausting day coupled with sleeping ( or not sleeping) at altitude, meant that we were down to three for the ascent of the Dufourspitze the following morning. We made the Zumsteinspitze in good time, but descending the knife edged snowy crest to the sattel was dry mouth time, and when Fergus’s broken wrist started to give him trouble on a down climb, we decided to give the alps’ second peak a miss, from that side.
The next day was the mighty Liskamm, and on Martin Moran’s recommendation we opted for the Cresta Sella. Getting to the satellite peak was unexpectedly tricky as the hot weather had melted any path of ascent, leaving steep ice, and necessitating placement of several ice screws. Getting down to the col looked problematic, and the ridge itself long and loose, so only two decided to give it a go. When the exhausted two returned down the ridge they were greatly moved to see that the other three had loyally stayed put to support them in their hour of need. It soon became apparent that the three were in fact stuck, the rope being much too short for the precipitous icy descent to the glacier on the other side, and the wise decision was made to remain put. Even with two ropes and placement of ice screws the descent was prolonged and tricky, with two abbs and a pendulum. 14 hours after setting out, the weary crew trudged onto the Quintino Sella hut. Amazingly, they were fed, despite being one hour twenty minutes late for dinner. I love Italy. This simply would not happen in France!!
Dave and Sandra decided to head down the next day, while Fergus, Finbarr, and self climbed Castor 4225m in just over 2 hours from the hut (about an hour under guide book time) then followed them down to Gressoney, where Marg and Aoife had just arrived . A fine celebratory meal out was had at the Flying Bra, followed by a rest day ( Dave and Sandra decided to go cragging but forgot to bring a rope), and the last day we walked over the Rothorn Pass enchanted by all the lovely alpine flowers we had denied ourselves by being up on the glaciers pretty much all of the trip.
Super trip, now I need a holiday…..
Our miserable climate continues to frustrate, with the midsummer Owey trip being the latest victim. A cold relentless wind, and 2.5 m swell made climbing a dangerous chore, the highlights of the trip being a fantastic meal cooked by Aideen, and a kayak trip around the east of the island on Saturday, when the sea had calmed enough to venture out on the sheltered side of Owey. Located a promising new area to climb, but that will have to wait!
Alfie, Mark and I met at the Small Crag above Murlough Bay on Saturday 16th May. It was a day of rain, hail, and strong cold westerly winds with intermittent spells of bright sunshine to help raise the spirits. Thankfully the rock stayed reasonably dry with the crag being east facing and the worst of the weather blowing over the top.
We climbed about 9 routes between us over the course of the day with Mark doing his first Fairhead lead. There where even a few other climbers about, a rare sight on the Small Crag.
As predicted the weather gave us about 1 day’s climbing in total over the 3 day ClimbFest weekend but those of us with a hardy nature (I’m talking about “hardshell tents” of course) stuck it out for the full term.
Friday was mostly spent in McGrory’s, Valli had a bit of a fire going but it was mostly too wet to want to hang around outside much.
A few people headed to the wall on Saturday but for the rest of us it was back to the pub after a initial couple of hours at Dunmore Head taking beginners and new faces up various routes, the old classics like Orange Blossom and Tina’s Crack being ticked off.
The table we set up for the Nepal collection did a roaring trade, I was as surprised as anyone to see my old jacket go for €50! Keith as usual was in top bargaining form, outdoing the empty-pocketed Marty to grab a cam for £20.
To avoid the driving rain a few of us gathered in Keith’s mobile were Keith and Marty tried to outdo each other’s music selection and the banter and slagging was hilarious. Top funny moment was us deciding to go down and set up Marty’s wigwam, for which he drunkenly gave us all instructions and then lined us up to exit the van behind him.
“You all know what you’re doing?”
“OK, follow me!”
He then proceeded to trip over the lip of Keith’s door and go spilling out into the night while the rest of us buckled in two. Only his cat-like reflexes kept him semi-upright but he disappeared in a half-bent run around the side of his own van, where he may or may not have succumbed to gravity. We were too busy howling with laughter to see.
Anyhoo, once the mirth had settled we got the wigwam upright, weighed down with stones and with the broken door sealed with the crocodile clips from some jump leads supplied by Niall. There wasn’t a dry being inside but the craic and the music were great nonetheless.
Sunday was actually a better day than Saturday but we’d all decided on visiting the new wall. Most of the campers packed up their sodden equipment that had taken a severe battering during the night, to the extent that some spent the night in their various cars. Big Paul showed me the inside of his tent which was literally swimming in litres of water. A trip to Borderlands was required for some dry clothes. My 2 boys and their mate fared better having been in the lee of the wind and in a sturdier tent but everything was still tinged with damp and was just packed with a pitchfork for later drying at home.
The new wall was top notch, everything I expected and more and I had aching arms after leading about 6 routes. George and Gerry seemed to utterly exhaust themselves too. The kids loved it too and I expect to hear them all clamouring to visit again in the near future.
Sunday evening was a quieter affair, again back in Keith’s mobile for more banter. Monday dawned with blue skies and PJ and I set off to do Rhumdoodle at Himalayan Wall, while the others pottered about at Dunowen. Our route had briars, grass, muck and loose stuff galore but we cleaned it as best we could, in sparkling form it’d be one of the top Severe routes in Culdaff to my mind. Just a pity about the grassy 5m exit.
We all gathered then to end the day at Brasil Rock and I got to do a few routes I’d never tried before, like Alan’s Expertees (HS) and Capgun Corner (S). The weather stayed fine and even my rucksack liner blowing into the sea and boobing off towards Malin couldn’t put a dampener on the day.
For such a miserable weekend I’m surprised at how much we did manage to climb and of course the craic was top notch as usual. Great to see you all again, looking forward to these Tue / Thu nights now.
So the wettest Climbfest has been and gone. Without the Foyle Arena we would have really been adrift. The Saturday ‘come and try it’ session was reasonably well attended and even better, dry. Then as they it was a game of two halves. Loads turned up at the wall and a big thanks goes out to Stuart and Bren who got the inductions done quickly and efficiently, thanks guys.
Sunday was as wet as forecasted so pretty much everyone headed to the wall and the craic was mighty. There are routes for all abilities and everyone was challenged by something.
Very few made it through to Monday but those that did were rewarded with a dry and sunny day [see photo] even if it did go off during the afternoon. Stars of the weekend were: Gerard O’Sullivan for completing the most routes indoors and out; George for giving the jamming masterclass and the superstar motivation award must go to Niamh Connolly for turning out every day including a dash to Belfast to buy shoes and a harness.
The best thing from the weekend though was that we managed to raise €1,000 to help the survivors of the Nepal earthquake. Thanks to all who donated gear and to those who bought items too.
Looking forward to next year already and I’ve booked warm weather – blue sky thinking.
We met in Donard car park on Sat morning (PJ went running instead and the McGees chose to ke). We intiially considered Eagle rocks but saw on the walk n that we would be in the shade and wind so instead persevered to Annalong buttrss, out of the wind and basking in the sun. There were 14 leads between 6 climbers of 9 routes with Minerva (HS) proving the most popular. Annalong is a great spot with the east wind blowing – a few of us got down to t-shirts – a good day out though the legs felt the walk in and out
Just got back from County Down ( Hobbit snag list) and the Mournes in time to see Ireland get beaten by Wales and then go out with Geoff, somewhere- to Malin Head. Venue only decided at the other side of the Foyle Bridge. As it turned out it was a good decision, as we managed three new routes in the Laurentic Area. Audacious (after a wreck) Ajax ( after another wreck) and Navigatourists after the landowner who appears to have gone back to live in London (so might not be about much).
Bravehearts 2015
All a bit last minute due to the unavailability of the new Hobbit van, but we managed to get booked into the MI accommodation at Inchree Onich for 4 nights, fired the stuff into the car and drove over on Tuesday. Wednesday, Margaret and I did Buachaille Etive Beg with a guy called Russell, as a warm up,( a Munro I had not done before, so not bad for a warm up I suppose). Snow was good but nil visibility!
Met up with Keith and Sandra for Thursday, and Margaret prevailed upon us to do the Corbett on the South side of Lough Leven ( another Garbh Beinn 867m). Nice, and we stayed below the cloud which obscured the N side of the Aonach Eagagh, and the Mamores on either side of us. Alun Richardson did a slide show at night.
It was very sociable at the Inchree centre, and word had it that the Gr 2 at Sron a Lairig was in condition and a great outing, so Keith Sandra and I did it on Friday. No views again, but great fun with lots of variety, including a steep gully variation no one else had tackled. Dave and Sandra arrived.
Creise was one peak in Glencoe I had not done, so it was on the menu for Saturday, again with Keith, Sandra and Dave ( very nice of them as they had done it before). The snow had suddenly sugarified so gully plans were shelved in favour of some nice hollow ice ( Sandra loved it) and mixed rock and snow ( and cloud). The snow improved higher up and the last step to the top of Sron a Creise provided some excitement, before exiting up the crunchy neve on the top. Onwards to Creise, descent, and re-ascent to Meall a Bhuiridh. Took the ski lift back down, just in time to watch Ireland beat France on the telly in the Onich Hotel. All very satisfactory indeed! Topped it off by a St Valentines meal for 6 in the hotel with a happy wife who had just claimed her 72nd Corbett, with Sandra (Kennedy).
On Sunday we were starting to head back. The others had plans for the Aonach Eagagh, but Corbett duty called again so we went South to Glen Lochy to claim the scalp of Beinn Chuirn. The old knees were starting to feel the strain of 5 days solid toil, and the terrain was steep, but at least it was clear ( I always get a good day arriving in Scotland and good day leaving, it’s the bit in between that’s the problem).
Dave and Sandra had kindly offered us accommodation for the night in their new bothy, so we made our way there. They had wimped out of the AE Ridge on the somewhat spurious excuse of food poisoning, but treated us royally in their fabulous new residence ( no resemblance whatsoever to the bothy referred to above) with a superb meal cooked by Sandra ( joke, it was Dave). Thanks to both of them.
Home… A great trip!
The weather had smiled upon us once more so Marty, Alan and I headed back to Muckish, this time with an eye for Divided Loyalties. Having seen it on Sunday we thought the cold snap would have produced some build up, but sadly not.
After some manoeuvring with Marty’s van we arrived at the start of the miner’s path and decide to ditch the original plan. It just looked too lean. And so it was that we headed off once more for god’s own gully. It was still the only route in condition.
Once again it provided great entertainment all the way. This time it was much more relaxing without anyone ahead of us, particularly someone without axe or crampons! The snow again was in great condition and the icy step providing a bit of interest and the top snowslope a great sense of exposure.
Marty was keen to do more so we traversed along the escarpment and descended just to the right of the colossus pinnacle. This gave us a close view of the summer possibilities. The fresh snowfall over the Monday and Tuesday had added a good deal of unconsolidated snow into the descent so some wading was called for.
We traversed along the base of the crag to a line of Iain Millar’s just right of Divided Loyalties. Sadly this was not in as good condition as the first. Although it looked good it was full of powder. At this point Marty had enough of carrying his sack and threw it away down the slope. Luckily his camera was in his hand and a banana was rescued from the snow! A lot of cursing of the soft snow brought us up to the final snowfield but it really was a pale imitation of the first gully, but a good excursion. Not recommended just now. Maybe God’ Own gully does deserve the title.
We descended the miner’s path and were surprised at the amount of snow that had banked it out since Sunday. Alan and Marty traversed back to retrieve the sack and we all headed back to the van. A great day out.
