Had a great weekend at the MI October gathering in Glendalough. I am not a fan of the Wicklows, but reluctantly have to admit the rock climbing in Glendalough is superb. Did a couple of routes on Hobnail Buttress, Pyramid Route and Hobnail Chimney, with Jack Bergin, both excellent, and the 5 pitch Great Gully Ridge** with Jack and Maeve. I think it deserves***. Bloody cold though.

We had the AGM on Saturday night, with a small but select crowd. Minutes to follow with a provisional meets list for the winter. Ivan travelled all the way from Sligo. George and Gerard had been climbing at Kinnego, and were a bit late, but well done to them too.  A good meal was had, and various people went climbing to various places on Sunday.

Download Minutes and Secretary’s report below.
AGM Minutes 2015

Secretary’s Report 2015

Faith in mountaineering now fully restored, after many recent washouts!
We ( Finbarr, Aoife, Fergus, Marg and self) hired a car at Geneva, and drove to the alpine meet in Saas Grund joining club members Cliona, Gerard, Andrew and Sarah, with Sandra and Dave arriving shortly after. There was a fair crowd of MI members camping in the sunshine, with Niall and family renting in the village. Some idiot came up with a plan to walk into the Amageller hut the next day, traverse the Dri Hornli Ridge, stay overnight, and do the traverse of the Weissmeis 4000m+ the next day. A bigger idiot ( me) thought it was a good idea. Reality kicked in when it took everything I had to make the hut, and the rest of the day to recover. Andrew and Fergus did the Weissmeis traverse, while Finbarr and self, with Gerard and Elaine and Sandra And Dave had a simply superb day on the Dri Hornli ( a cross between the Cuillin Ridge and Howling Ridge, but far better). The next few days saw the Allalinhorn, the Nadelhorn and the Jagihorn climbed, as we prepared for the Spaghetti extravaganza.
Friday saw Margaret and Aoife take to the TMR ( Tour de Monte Rosa), to trek to Gressoney from Saas Grund, while Sandra, Dave, Fergus, Finbarr, and self drove around via the St Bernard tunnel. Lifts took us to 3600m and a short trek to the Gnifetti Rifugi, which was jammed with people, it being the weekend. The atmosphere was jubilant and the food was fantastic!! In the morning we followed hoardes up the glacier, and Vincent Pyramid 4215m, Balmenhorn 4157m, Schwarzhorn 4322m, Ludwigshohe 4341m, and Parrotspitze 4432, fell to our weary tred, before we had to make the exhausting ascent to the highest hut in Europe, the Margarhita, at 4554m, atop the Signalkuppe. In fact the fourth highest summit in Europe is the toilet on the top (our) floor as there is a step up onto the throne. Thus, the saying ” I am going for the summit, and may be some time”. This exhausting day coupled with sleeping ( or not sleeping) at altitude, meant that we were down to three for the ascent of the Dufourspitze the following morning. We made the Zumsteinspitze in good time, but descending the knife edged snowy crest to the sattel was dry mouth time, and when Fergus’s broken wrist started to give him trouble on a down climb, we decided to give the alps’ second peak a miss, from that side.
The next day was the mighty Liskamm, and on Martin Moran’s recommendation we opted for the Cresta Sella. Getting to the satellite peak was unexpectedly tricky as the hot weather had melted any path of ascent, leaving steep ice, and necessitating placement of several ice screws. Getting down to the col looked problematic, and the ridge itself long and loose, so only two decided to give it a go. When the exhausted two returned down the ridge they were greatly moved to see that the other three had loyally stayed put to support them in their hour of need. It soon became apparent that the three were in fact stuck, the rope being much too short for the precipitous icy descent to the glacier on the other side, and the wise decision was made to remain put. Even with two ropes and placement of ice screws the descent was prolonged and tricky, with two abbs and a pendulum. 14 hours after setting out, the weary crew trudged onto the Quintino Sella hut. Amazingly, they were fed, despite being one hour twenty minutes late for dinner. I love Italy. This simply would not happen in France!!
Dave and Sandra decided to head down the next day, while Fergus, Finbarr, and self climbed Castor 4225m in just over 2 hours from the hut (about an hour under guide book time) then followed them down to Gressoney, where Marg and Aoife had just arrived . A fine celebratory meal out was had at the Flying Bra, followed by a rest day ( Dave and Sandra decided to go cragging but forgot to bring a rope), and the last day we walked over the Rothorn Pass enchanted by all the lovely alpine flowers we had denied ourselves by being up on the glaciers pretty much all of the trip.
Super trip, now I need a holiday…..

Our miserable climate continues to frustrate, with the midsummer Owey trip being the latest victim. A cold relentless wind, and 2.5 m swell made climbing a dangerous chore, the highlights of the trip being a fantastic meal cooked by Aideen, and a kayak trip around the east of the island on Saturday, when the sea had calmed enough to venture out on the sheltered side of Owey. Located a promising new area to climb, but that will have to wait!

Alfie, Mark and I met at the Small Crag above Murlough Bay on Saturday 16th May. It was a day of rain, hail, and strong cold westerly winds with intermittent spells of bright sunshine to help raise the spirits. Thankfully the rock stayed reasonably dry with the crag being east facing and the worst of the weather blowing over the top.
We climbed about 9 routes between us over the course of the day with Mark doing his first Fairhead lead. There where even a few other climbers about, a rare sight on the Small Crag.

So the wettest Climbfest has been and gone. Without the Foyle Arena we would have really been adrift. The Saturday ‘come and try it’ session was reasonably well attended and even better, dry. Then as they it was a game of two halves. Loads turned up at the wall and a big thanks goes out to Stuart and Bren who got the inductions done quickly and efficiently, thanks guys.
Sunday was as wet as forecasted so pretty much everyone headed to the wall and the craic was mighty. There are routes for all abilities and everyone was challenged by something.
Very few made it through to Monday but those that did were rewarded with a dry and sunny day [see photo] even if it did go off during the afternoon. Stars of the weekend were: Gerard O’Sullivan for completing the most routes indoors and out; George for giving the jamming masterclass and the superstar motivation award must go to Niamh Connolly for turning out every day including a dash to Belfast to buy shoes and a harness.
The best thing from the weekend though was that we managed to raise €1,000 to help the survivors of the Nepal earthquake. Thanks to all who donated gear and to those who bought items too.
Looking forward to next year already and I’ve booked warm weather – blue sky thinking.